Kori S. Voorhees, our Wine Peeps Editor-in-Chief, is also a contributor to Washington Tasting Room Magazine, a quarterly magazine that focuses on Washington State wine with articles about wineries, vineyards, travel, and lifestyle. The following article, written by Kori, appeared in the Spring 2011 issue.

A tour of Boushey Vineyards with renowned grape grower Dick Boushey, who makes the tough task of growing world-class grapes appear effortless

One would never guess by talking to Dick Boushey that he ranks among the most respected growers in Washington State. His Boushey Vineyards in the Yakima Valley have been producing much sought after fruit for 30 years, yet he remains remarkably humble about his success.

“I first planted grapes around my house, and then ventured out from there, looking at sites that would fit wine grapes,” explains Boushey without any airs.

Boushey Vineyards is comprised of seven smaller vineyards, called blocks, all in close proximity to Boushey’s home north of Grandview, Washington, at the base of the Rattlesnake Hills. Boushey planted his first experimental block with ten different varieties in 1977. In 1980, he planted his first commercial block.

Today, Boushey grows an impressive 23 grape varieties on 125 acres, including Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Marsanne, and Roussanne. Currently, about 30 producers purchase Boushey grapes. Boushey refers to them as partners rather than customers. “I want to sell to a lot of people,” he says, adding, “It spreads the risk out.” Speaking of diversification, Boushey also grows concord grapes, apples, and cherries in addition to wine grapes.

Boushey grew up in Sumner, Washington, never dreaming he would end up farming. After college, he worked as a banker but decided it wasn’t the career for him. His father bought an orchard in eastern Washington and asked Dick to take care of it for him until he retired and could move there. About the same time, the wine industry in Washington State was just beginning to emerge and Boushey spent a lot of time at the Washington State University Irrigated Agriculture Research and Extension Center in Prosser trying to learn as much as he could about farming. It was there he met Dr. Walter Clore, considered the father of Washington wine, and the relationship sparked his interest in the industry.

Grower and Winemaker

One of the things that makes Dick Boushey an exceptional grower is that he understands the needs and wants of winemakers and the importance of growing the wine in the vineyard. He’s been a home winemaker himself for 25 years, which helps him to understand the process and talk to the winemakers who buy his grapes.

“I wouldn’t consider myself a winemaker, but I probably have more experience than a lot of people starting wineries,” says Boushey. “I’m always a little dubious of winemakers who don’t have a good background in enology. There’s going to be awkward years. You need to make good wine every year, and good winemakers do.”

The Gift of Syrah

The variety most often associated with Boushey is Syrah. Syrah ripens late in the cooler climate of the Yakima Valley, which allows it to retain good natural acidity without the alcohol getting too high. Boushey grows Syrah on several different vineyard sites including McPherson Vineyard, County Line Road Vineyard, Grand Côte Vineyard, and Golden View Vineyard. While all four vineyards are within walking distance of Boushey’s house, they do have some variability when it comes to the slope and the depth of the soil.

When asked to characterize the overriding traits of Syrah made from Boushey fruit, winemakers frequently mention the concentration of color, texture, and integrated tannins.

Marie-Eve Gilla, winemaker for Forgeron Cellars says, “The main thing for me about the Boushey fruit is that it’s got a texture to it. It’s very precise. When you get it into the winery, you don’t need to fight with it. You can let the fruit do what it wants to do and then get it right into the bottle. It’s a gift, beautiful from the beginning to the end.”

Chris Sparkman of Sparkman Cellars agrees, “Texturally, I think it is unique. We’ve messed around with trying to blend it; at least we did in the first couple of years, with other vineyards from other sites. But it’s so singular and so special texturally that we just can’t mess with it. When the Boushey comes into the winery, there is sort of a celebration and a ‘here it comes’ because we’re so excited about it’s unique characters.”

Bob Betz of Betz Family Winery produces his La Serenne Syrah each year with fruit solely from Boushey’s County Line Road Vineyard. “We’ve been farming the same rows with the County Line Vineyard since 2000. We farm eight blocks total of Syrah from Red Mountain to Red Willow. We receive the smallest berry size and the smallest cluster weight from Boushey’s County Line. We typically get this lush, characterful suppleness of tannins that come out of there. We are looking for pigment, concentration, tannins, and yet vitality and vibrancy. I contend that’s what we get from this County Line Syrah.”

Farming Practices

Speaking about his farming practices, Boushey says, “My approach is minimalistic. I don’t like the word stress or deficit irrigation, but it’s moderation. I try to keep a small canopy—small clusters, small berries—and I think that’s one of the attributes that helps the wines have good color and good uniform ripening.” He doesn’t employ a by the book approach and uses technology sparingly. For Boushey, it’s all about experience, learning what makes each row in his vineyards tick to perfection.

Boushey’s good-natured personality makes him immediately likable and actually helps him promote his fruit and the wines made with it. Even after three decades, he considers himself new to the business. “I’m still trying to figure out the best way to do this. I’m still learning. I’ll probably be doing this for another 20 years.”

The fruit already speaks for itself, but with Dick Boushey’s dogged determination and unpretentious attitude, look for Boushey Vineyards to stay ahead of the pack as the vines and grower continue to mature together.

Would you like a quick suggestion for a good wine to drink tonight (or this weekend) that won’t break your budget and is widely available? Many of our readers have said this is something they would like, so here is this week’s selection, the 2009 Jacob’s Creek Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon from the Coonawarra region in Australia.

Our selection criteria include:

• A very good Quality rating of >=3.5 stars (out of 5)
• A price tag of <=$15
• Must be widely available

Johann Gramp, a Bavarian immigrant, planted the first commercial vineyard in Australia’s Barossa Valley on the banks of Jacob’s Creek in 1847. In the early 1900’s, the company was registered as G. Gramp & Sons and the Orlando Wines trademark was established. In 1976, Orlando Wines officially launched the Jacob’s Creek brand. Bernard Hickin went to work for Orlando Wines that same year; he was promoted to Chief Winemaker in 2006.

Today, Jacob’s Creek is one of the world’s most popular wine brands. When we visited the Barossa Valley of Australia in 2005, we had the pleasure to visit the beautiful, modern Jacob’s Creek Wine Tasting Centre, located fittingly on the banks of Jacob’s Creek.

“Fresh blackcurrant and dark berry fruit aromas on the nose exuding typical Coonawarra characteristics. Hints of black olive and licorice balanced with nuances of cedar and vanilla from fine grain French oak. Generous ripe cassis flavors with tobacco leaf, supported by subtle integration of oak leading to a rich, smooth finish.” –Jacob’s Creek

2009 Jacob’s Creek Reserve Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra, Australia): Deep, dark red in color. Nice nose with black cherry, blackcurrant, and forest floor aromas. Black fruit, black licorice, clove, bell pepper, and vegetal notes come through on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with crisp acidity, medium to high tannins, and a long finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $12.99; Available elsewhere, $8 to $15

Founded in 1987 by Champagne Taittinger of France in partnership with Kobrand Corporation, Domaine Carneros is located in the heart of Carneros in California’s Napa Valley. Claude Taittinger, the president of Champagne Taittinger, began searching for a site to open a winery in the United States in the late 1970’s. He selected a site in the Carneros AVA because he believed that it had the potential to produce world-class sparkling wines. Domaine Carneros sources 95% of their fruit from estate vineyards, and all of their wines are labeled with the Carneros appellation. Eileen Crane is the winery’s first and only winemaker.

Calling upon Taittinger’s knowledge of producing quality Champagne in France, Domaine Carneros has established itself as a world-class sparkling wine house in the United States. Domaine Carneros produces three styles of sparkling wine: Brut, Brut Rosé, and Blanc de Blancs. Recently, we had the opportunity to taste their Brut Rosé Cuvée de la Pompadour in a blind samples tasting. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this Brut Rosé is excellent and a great representation of the quality sparkling wine that Domaine Carneros produces.

The Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé Cuvée de la Pompadour is named for Madame de Pompadour, the mistress of Louis XV, who is credited with introducing Champagne to the court at Versailles.

“Champagne is the only wine a woman can drink and remain beautiful.” –Madame de Pompadour, namesake of the Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé Cuvée de la Pompadour

So when you are selecting sparkling wines to enjoy during the rapidly approaching holidays, I encourage you to give Domaine Carneros, and particularly this Brut Rosé, a try. And if you are ever in the Napa Valley, consider a visit to their beautiful chateau.

NV Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé Cuvée de la Pompadour (Carneros, Napa Valley, California): 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay. Pale pinkish salmon color. Small, fairly fast bead of bubbles. Very aromatic with strawberry, peach, and floral notes on the nose. Strawberry, raspberry, citrus notes, and a hint of spice come through on the palate. Dry and medium-bodied with crisp acidity. Well-balanced with a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $35; Available elsewhere, $28 to $50

This week’s Wine Word of the Week is pupitre.

Official definition from Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine:
Pupitre is the French name for a hand riddling rack, traditionally used for riddling sparkling wines by hand.

Layman’s terms from Kori:
Pupitre is an A-shaped riddling rack for sparkling wines.

Chateau Ste. Michelle is Washington State’s founding winery with its roots dating back to the repeal of Prohibition. In 1976, Ste. Michelle built a French-style chateau in Woodinville, just northeast of Seattle. While all of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s vineyards are located on the east side of the Cascade Mountains, all of their white wines are made in Woodinville. Their red wines are made at Canoe Ridge Estate in eastern Washington.

No matter where you live in the United States, you are probably familiar with the wines of Chateau Ste. Michelle, particularly their Columbia Valley line. While those wines enjoy national distribution, Chateau Ste. Michelle also produces a number of other reserve and limited release wines that are not as widely available.

We recently had the opportunity to taste a number of the current releases from Chateau Ste. Michelle, across their family of wines, in a blind samples tasting. We have already featured a number of their Columbia Valley wines in our A Wine for Tonight series. Three wines that do not meet the criteria for that series because they retail for over $15 and are not as widely available, yet are worthy of your attention, are the 2008 Ethos Late Harvest White Riesling, the 2007 Ethos Reserve Syrah, and the 2008 Artist Series Meritage.

The Ethos Late Harvest Riesling is a decadent treat. This special wine was made from select Riesling grapes that were left on the vine longer in order to achieve the natural condition of Botrytis, or noble rot. Botrytis concentrates the sugars and flavors of the fruit.

Ethos means “character” in Greek, the “distinctive spirit” of a specific culture, movement or philosophy. For Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Ethos Reserve series of wines, winemaker Bob Bertheau endeavors to make limited production wines that represent the “best of the vintage.” The 2007 Ethos Reserve Syrah definitely fits that bill. It is a big, yet elegant, wine.

Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Artist Series features both artisan winemaking and fine art. The label on the 2008 vintage features the work of artist and photographer Cara Barer, who changes a common reference book into a work of sculpture and photographs the outcome. For the first time, the 2008 Artist Series blend includes all five of the Bordeaux grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.

2008 Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Late Harvest White Riesling (Columbia Valley, Washington): Golden yellow in color. Nice nose with floral, white peach, and orange peel aromas. White peach, tangerine, orange peel, and floral flavors come through on the palate. Sweet and medium to full-bodied with crisp acidity. Well-balanced with good mouthfeel and a long, refreshing finish. A delicious dessert wine. Residual Sugar: 22.8%
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $25 [375ml]; Available elsewhere, $35 to $37

2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Reserve Syrah (Columbia Valley, Washington): Dark purplish red in color. Nice nose with espresso bean and blackberry aromas. Black fruit, espresso, and dust come through on the palate. Full-bodied and lively with medium to high tannins. Well-balanced with good complexity and a long, lingering finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $28; Available elsewhere, $26 to $30

2008 Chateau Ste. Michelle Artist Series Meritage Red Wine (Columbia Valley, Washington): 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Aromatic with black fruit and oak on the nose. Black fruit, oak, leather, licorice, and a hint of chocolate come through on the palate. Medium to full-bodied and lively with medium to high tannins. Well-balanced with a long, smooth finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 2 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $55

Would you like a quick suggestion for a good wine to drink tonight (or this weekend) that won’t break your budget and is widely available? Many of our readers have said this is something they would like, so here is this week’s selection, the 2008 Rocca di Montemassi Le Focaie Sangiovese from the Maremma Toscana IGT in Italy.

Our selection criteria include:

• A very good Quality rating of >=3.5 stars (out of 5)
• A price tag of <=$15
• Must be widely available

The Rocca di Montemassi Estate is located in the coastal area of Maremma in Tuscany, Italy. Currently, they farm 262 acres of grapes in their estate vineyards. In addition to Sangiovese, which is traditionally grown in the area, they also grow Vermentino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah. Stefano Ferrante serves as winemaker.

“Intense and full, the flavor offers pleasant scents of violets, cherries and wild berries. With a good structure but pleasantly fresh and with a soft and persistent finish. A harmonious wine that accompanies preserved meats of the Tuscan tradition, savory introductory dishes, grilled red meats and moderately aged Pecorini cheeses.” –Rocca di Montemassi

2008 Rocca di Montemassi Le Focaie Sangiovese (Maremma Toscana IGT, Italy): 100% Sangiovese. Deep red in color. Nice nose with black plum, raspberry, and floral aromas. Black plum, raspberry, and smoked meat comes through on the palate. Medium-bodied with lively acidity, medium tannins, and a medium to long finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $12.99; Available elsewhere, $10 to $12

Each month when I post about one of our challenging wine pairing meals, I ask for suggestions for challenging wine pairings for us to try in the future. On several occasions, we have received requests to try Korean cuisine. While I had never prepared any Korean dishes, I decided to give it a try.

While researching Korean food and what wines to pair with it, I learned that it is often difficult to find wines that will pair well with these dishes. Korean dishes are usually high in acid, which can pose a challenge when trying to find wines that will work with them. As I started looking for wines that would go with Korean foods, I learned that most often white wines are chosen. However, since I decided to prepare a beef dish, I really wanted to find some red wines to pair with it.

Beef bulgogi is basically a marinated barbecued beef. Bulgogi means “fire meat” in Korean because it is cooked over an open flame. I marinated the meat and then cooked it on the grill. The meat and white rice were wrapped in a red leaf lettuce and served with a side dish of kimchi. Kimchi is a traditional Korean dish of fermented napa cabbage, radishes, green onions, and sometimes cucumbers. I was pleasantly surprised with the flavor of the kimchi; it was very good and spicy.

One of the guidelines for food and wine pairing is to go for a match. Since Korean cuisine is high in acid, we decided to pair the beef bulgogi and kimchi with red wines that were also high in acid. The two acids cancel each other out and all of the other flavors come forward. We selected the 2009 Owen Roe Sharecropper’s Pinot Noir from Oregon and the 2008 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d’Asti Le Orme Superiore from Italy. Both wines were excellent. Before we had any food, we especially enjoyed the Barbera; however, with the meal, the higher acidity in the Pinot Noir made it the consensus favorite as the best pairing.

We’d love for you to share in the comments what you would have paired with this meal. And, as always, we welcome your suggestions for challenging wine pairings for us to try in the future.

Bon Appétit!

2009 Owen Roe Sharecropper’s Pinot Noir (Oregon): Medium-deep ruby red in color. Aromatic with red fruit, perfume, and floral notes on the nose. Sour cherry, strawberry, and floral notes come through on the palate. Medium-bodied with tart acidity and soft tannins. Well-balanced with a long finish. Great with food.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Fred Meyer (Seattle, Washington), $23.29; Available elsewhere, $20 to $32

2008 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d’Asti Le Orme Superiore (Barbera d’Asti DOCG, Piedmont, Italy): Medium-deep ruby red in color. Nice nose with earth and red fruit aromas. Fruit-forward with ripe red fruit, especially cherry and raspberry, earth, and black licorice on the palate. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and medium, smooth tannins. Well-balanced with a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Fred Meyer (Seattle, Washington), $14.49; Available elsewhere, $12 to $14

This week’s Wine Word of the Week is punching down.

Official definition from Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine:
Punching down is the winemaking operation of breaking up and submerging the cap of skins and other solids during red wine fermentation to stop the cap from drying out, to encourage the extraction of color and tannins, and to encourage useful aeration in the making of a deeply colored red wine. …. It is usually done between one and three times a day depending on the fermentation rate.

Layman’s terms from Kori:
Punching down is the process of breaking up the cap during red wine fermentation. In order for color, tannins, and other flavor compounds to be extracted from the skins, the skins have to be in the juice, not on top of it.

Northwest Totem Cellars, founded by Mike and Kate Sharadin, is located on private property in Redmond, Washington, just outside of Woodinville. Kate Sharadin grew up in the Vancouver, BC, area so it is not surprising that the Sharadins settled in the Pacific Northwest. In 1996, they moved to the Woodinville area after careers had taken them to Texas and California. Mike was an elite swim coach for over 30 years, including coaching in the 1984 Olympics.

After moving to Woodinville, the Sharadins met Cheryl Jones when Mike succeeded her as the local PTA president. They became fast friends and soon discovered a common interest in wine. Cheryl had worked in the wine industry for over 30 years for a number of Woodinville wineries. Ultimately, Cheryl helped Mike get his start in the wine industry with a job as cellarmaster for Cavatappi Winery in Kirkland. After getting his feet wet in the industry, Mike decided to try his hand at winemaking. The Sharadins teamed up with four other people to make some wine. They learned a lot in the process and decided to take their hobby to a commercial level when they founded Northwest Totem Cellars in 2005. Mike serves as the winemaker, and their friend Cheryl Jones is the consulting enologist.

Northwest Totem Cellars sources fruit from Chandler Reach Vineyards, Elerding Vineyards, and Sagemoor Vineyards. All of their red wines are closed with environmentally friendly glass stoppers rather than cork. Their annual production is around 2,100 cases.

Recently, we had the opportunity to taste some of the current releases from Northwest Totem Cellars in a blind samples tasting. Our favorite was the 2008 Grenache. It exhibits vibrant fruit and will pair extremely well with food. We also really enjoyed the 2007 Longhouse Syrah and the 2007 Low Man Red, a Bordeaux-style blend.

If you find yourself in the Woodinville area, I highly encourage you to visit Northwest Totem Cellars. The Sharadins welcome guests into their beautiful Northwest-style home for tastings. They are open one weekend per month or by appointment.

2008 Northwest Totem Cellars Grenache (Yakima Valley, Washington): 97% Grenache and 3% Mourvedre. Medium-deep ruby red. Aromatic with molasses, mint, and red fruits on the nose. Raspberry, blueberry, mint, and molasses come through on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with lively acidity and medium tannins. Well-balanced with a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 3 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $35

2007 Northwest Totem Cellars Longhouse Syrah (Yakima Valley, Washington): 90% Syrah, 4% Viognier, and 6% Petit Verdot. Dark, dense purple in color. Aromatic with black fruit, oak, and floral notes on the nose. Black fruit, floral notes, and spice come through on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with lively acidity, medium tannins, and a long finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $20

2007 Northwest Totem Cellars Low Man Red (Columbia Valley, Washington): 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep ruby red. Nice nose with raspberry, blackberry, and spice aromas. Red fruit, spice, and licorice come through on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with lively acidity, medium tannins, and a long finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 2 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $35

2007 Northwest Totem Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley, Washington): Dark red in color. Nice nose with jammy red and black fruit and vanilla aromas. More black fruit and vanilla come through on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with lively acidity, medium tannins, and a medium to long finish.
Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 3 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $35

2008 Northwest Totem Cellars Qo-ne (Columbia Valley, Washington): 60% Cabernet Franc, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Syrah, and 2% Petit Verdot. Dark red. Aromatic with smoke, spice, black fruit, and earth on both the nose and palate. Medium to full-bodied with lively acidity, medium tannins, and a medium to long finish.
Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 1 bang for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $35

Would you like a quick suggestion for a good wine to drink tonight (or this weekend) that won’t break your budget and is widely available? Many of our readers have said this is something they would like, so here is this week’s selection, the NV Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Rosé from the Columbia Valley of Washington State.

Our selection criteria include:

• A very good Quality rating of >=3.5 stars (out of 5)
• A price tag of <=$15
• Must be widely available

The Brut Rosé is one of an excellent array of value sparkling wines from Domaine Ste. Michelle. Producing sparkling wines for over thirty years, Domaine Ste. Michelle is one of the largest sparkling wine houses in the United States, producing more than 300,000 cases each year. Rick Casqueiro has been head winemaker since 1994. While this Brut Rosé is good enough to celebrate a special occasion, its price point makes it an excellent weeknight or Sunday brunch bubbly.

“Rosé sparkling wines are original not only because of their color, but also their vinous character. Brut Rosé is a beautiful salmon pink wine, with a persistent column of small bubbles. A delicate sparkler, with strawberry impressions coming through in the nose, and on the palate. The initial impression is dry, with a soft and fruity aftertaste.” –Winemaker Rick Casqueiro

NV Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Rosé (Columbia Valley, Washington): 100% Pinot Noir. Pale pinkish salmon in color. Aromatic with white peach, orange peel, and raspberry on both the nose and palate. Dry and light to medium-bodied with lively acidity and a long finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $12; Available elsewhere, $8 to $15