This week’s Wine Word of the Week is avvinare.

Official definition from Karen MacNeil’s The Wine Lover’s Page-A-Day Calendar:
If you’ve been to Italy—or even a top Italian restaurant in the United States—you might have noticed that after you order a bottle of fine wine, wine glasses will be brought to the table with a small amount of wine already in them. What the sommelier has done is called avvinare—Italian for priming the glass with the wine to come. The practice is both practical and ceremonial. A glass that is rinsed with wine is less likely to smell of chlorinated water, dishwashing detergents, or any other off odors that can collect in the bowl of a wine glass.

Layman’s terms from Kori:
Avvinare is an Italian term for priming a wine glass with wine to eliminate any off odors in the glass.

I need to tell you right up front that you have to be somewhat of a different sort of wine geek to even understand what author Randall Grahm is saying most of the time. But if you like wine and literature and enjoy parodies, this is your book. By the way, Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology recently received a James Beard Award, so it must have hit their hot button.

I’m a little ambivalent about the book. It contains a wealth of information, but it is mostly a collection of writings from the famous Bonny Doon Newsletter.

As you may know, Randall Grahm was the founder, owner, and winemaker of Bonny Doon Vineyard. He started out to make the great American Pinot Noir and instead ended up becoming known as one of the pioneers of Rhone varietal wines in California. Mostly, Grahm is famous for his marketing prowess and unique Bonny Doon labels. While the Bonny Doon Newsletter I mentioned earlier was intended to aid the wine trade in promoting and selling his wine, such as the famous “Big House” brand, the newsletter became more of a platform for educating and sharing Grahm’s point of view on wine and life.

It is obvious in the book that Grahm is very opinionated on a number of subjects. In addition to his passionate views on terroir, Grahm leads the charge in advocating the screw cap over the cork as a bottle closure, pans California Chardonnay unmercifully, calls Napa Valley an adult theme park, and criticizes the popularity of point scores for wine while admitting that maybe part of the reason is that he hasn’t always taken winemaking as seriously as marketing and his own scores haven’t been all that high.

As Grahm has grown older, he has reconsidered his priorities and made some big changes in both his business and personal life. No doubt, a young daughter and a health scare have caused him to refocus his energy. In 2006, he sold two of his large brands, reconstituted the Riesling-focused Pacific Rim brand, and committed himself to really making distinctive wines. I get the feeling that he has some regrets about his previous emphasis on scale of production, and now wants only to make honest wines that represent the place they come from; in other words, wines that express their terroir.

This book is not for everyone, but on balance I liked it. If any of the highlights above have peaked your interest or you’d like to learn more about Randall Grahm, then pick up a copy today.

Have you already read Been Doon So Long? If so, please leave a comment and let us know what you thought of it.

Cheers!

Full Disclosure: We received this book as a review copy.

Would you like a quick suggestion for a good wine to drink tonight (or this weekend) that won’t break your budget and is widely available? Many of our readers have said this is something they would like, so here is this week’s selection, the NV Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine from the Columbia Valley of Washington State.

Our selection criteria include:

• A very good Quality rating of >=3.5 stars (out of 5)
• A price tag of <=$15
• Must be widely available

For those who haven’t heard, tonight there is a virtual tasting event featuring Washington wine. Hosted by Josh Wade of Drink Nectar and 13 other Washington wine writers including me, #WAWine (the event’s Twitter hashtag) is a virtual event in which hopefully thousands of people from all around the world will be simultaneously tasting Washington wine and talking about it via Twitter, Facebook, and at on-location events.

Since we are diehard advocates for Washington wine, we think that an event centered on Washington wine is reason for celebration. Therefore, I think that it is appropriate for us to recommend a Washington sparkling wine to you so that you can participate if you’d like. We’re hosting a small gathering of friends for the event, and we’ll be kicking it off with this bubbly.

The Blanc de Blancs is one of the best of an excellent array of value sparkling wines from Domaine Ste. Michelle. Producing sparkling wines for over thirty years, Domaine Ste. Michelle is one of the largest sparkling wine houses in the United States, producing more than 300,000 cases each year. Rick Casqueiro has been head winemaker since 1994.

“Blanc de Blancs is made primarily from Chardonnay and has essentially the same fruit profile. Try substituting our Blanc de Blancs the next time you think about serving a Chardonnay.” –Winemaker Rick Casqueiro

So go to your local wine shop, pick up a bottle of this NV Domaine Ste. Michelle Sparkling Wine or any Washington wine, log on to Twitter between 5 and 8pm PDT tonight, and participate in the #WAWine event. You’ll find me on Twitter @winepeeps.

And, even if you have no interest in participating in the virtual event, this is a great bottle to enjoy with tonight’s dinner or just because.

NV Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine (Columbia Valley, Washington): Pale, greenish straw yellow. Very aromatic with citrus and grassy notes. More citrus fruits, lemon zest, and some minerality come through on the palate. Dry, medium-bodied and crisp with small, fairly fast bubbles, and a long finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $12; Available elsewhere, $8 to $11

We spent Memorial Day Weekend visiting the Columbia Gorge AVA. The Columbia Gorge AVA was established in 2004. It runs along the Columbia River and encompasses areas in both Washington and Oregon. The area boasts gorgeous views, numerous outdoor recreation options, quality vineyards, excellent wines, and very friendly folks.

We arrived in Hood River, Oregon, on Friday afternoon, checked into our hotel, and then crossed the Hood River Bridge back into Washington for our first visit to Celilo Vineyard. Celilo Vineyard is the premier white wine grape vineyard in Washington State. Rick Ensminger, Celilo’s vineyard manager, gave us a tour of the vineyard in the pouring rain. Celilo has breathtaking views of the Columbia River and Mount Hood, but they were hard to see in the rain. We returned the next day to take pictures when the sun finally came out.

On Saturday, it was overcast but thankfully dry. We spent the day on the Oregon side of the AVA and visited four wineries: Cathedral Ridge, Phelps Creek, The Pines 1852, and Viento.

Founded in 1985 as the second winery in Hood River, Cathedral Ridge Winery was originally known as Flerchinger Vineyards. Sonoma-based winemaker Michael Sebastiani makes their wines. Today, Cathedral Ridge produces 6,000 cases per year.

The tasting room for Phelps Creek Vineyard is at the Hood River Golf Course. It is the first winery I’ve visited at a golf course, but I must say the setting works. And the wines are excellent. Rich Cushman is their Director of Winemaking. I absolutely loved the 2008 Phelps Creek Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay. Alexandrine Roy from Burgundy, France, is a contributing winemaker for Phelps Creek and crafts two wines for them each year, the “Fleur de Roy” Rosé and the Cuvée Alexandrine Pinot Noir. Phelps Creek is lucky to have Rich and Alexandrine making their wines. It is a rare occasion when I find domestic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that I really like. Founded in 2004, Phelps Creek produces 6,000 cases per year.

At The Pines 1852 tasting room in downtown Hood River, we had the pleasure to meet Sierra Wright, daughter of founder and owner Lonnie Wright. We were able to schedule a tour of the family’s The Pines Vineyard in The Dalles for Monday. Their Old Vine Zinfandel vines are over 100 years old, one of the oldest vineyards in the Northwest. Annual production for The Pines 1852 Winery is 3,500 to 4,000 cases.

We wrapped up our day with a wonderful visit at Viento. We ran into Celilo’s vineyard manager Rick Ensminger and his wife Jody there. They were wine tasting with their friends Dennis and Becky Beeks, owners of Chukar Ridge Vineyards. After tasting through Viento’s regular lineup of wines, we had the pleasure to meet owner and winemaker Rich Cushman (yes, the same winemaker as Phelps Creek) and concluded the day tasting his ice wine barrel samples (outstanding, by the way) on the patio along with the Ensmingers and Beeks. In addition to enjoying great wines, it is always a treat to get to spend time with growers and winemakers. They are some of the most down-to-earth, genuine people you will ever meet.

On Sunday, we explored the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge AVA and visited four wineries: Syncline, Cor, Memaloose, and Domaine Pouillon.

Our first stop took us to Syncline Wine Cellars in Lyle, Washington. We had the pleasure to finally meet both James and Poppie Mantone in person. Poppie was carrying their newborn daughter in a sling while their older daughter collected rocks around the winery, and James was busy working on his tractor. All the while, both of them and their staff welcomed guests to the tasting room for one of their busiest weekends of the year. No rest for the weary. We are very appreciative that we were able to steal a few minutes of their time and had a wonderful visit about bottle closures (Syncline is a cork-free winery, using screw caps and glass closures) and farming practices. They are wonderful people and excellent winemakers.

Owner/winemaker Luke Bradford founded Cor Cellars in 2005. Cor means “heart” in Latin. Cor specializes in Bordeaux-style and Mosel-style wines.

The McCormick Family owns and operates Memaloose on their Mistral Ranch property in Lyle, Washington. McCormick Family Vineyards includes five estate vineyards, three in Washington and two in Oregon. Memaloose sources fruit from their estate vineyards and purchases about one-third of their grapes from other vineyards in the area. Annual production is about 1,200 cases per year.

Domaine Pouillon is family-owned and operated by Alexis and Juliet Pouillon. Founded in 2005, Domaine Pouillon produces approximately 1,500 cases per year.

Before returning to Seattle, we stopped at The Pines Vineyard in The Dalles on Monday morning for a tour with owner/vineyard manager Lonnie Wright. It was fascinating to get a look at century old Zinfandel vines. I have seen old vines in California but these were the oldest vines I’ve seen in the Northwest. Look for a detailed post about The Pines Vineyard in the coming weeks.

If you have not spent any time in the Columbia Gorge, I highly recommend it, for both outdoor recreation and wine tasting.

Here’s a breakdown of the wines that we tasted while visiting the Columbia Gorge AVA. Under each Quality heading, the wine name and region will be listed along with price and QPR rating. Since the Columbia Gorge AVA runs into both Washington and Oregon, I have indicated in parentheses the state(s) in which the grapes were grown. Wines in bold type received a QPR rating of 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5).

Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
2008 Syncline Subduction Red, Columbia Valley (WA), $18, QPR: 5
NV Domaine Pouillon Black Dot Red Blend, Horse Heaven Hills (WA), $18.50, QPR: 5
2008 Phelps Creek Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay, Columbia Gorge (WA), $24, QPR: 5
2005 Alain Fouquet Cabernet Sauvignon [Viento], Pepper Bridge Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley (WA), $40, QPR: 5
2009 Syncline Viognier, Coyote Canyon Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills (WA), $20, QPR: 4
2007 Viento Barbera, Lonesome Spring Ranch, Columbia Valley (WA), $24, QPR: 4
2008 Syncline Mourvedre, Coyote Canyon Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills (WA), $30, QPR: 4
2008 Phelps Creek Cuvée Alexandrine Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge (OR), $42, QPR: 4

Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
2005 Viento Cuvée Tuition Sangiovese, Columbia Valley (WA), $20, QPR: 5
2008 Phelps Creek “Vin Dore” Dessert Gewurztraminer, Columbia Gorge (WA), $24 [375ml], QPR: 5
2006 Viento Pinot Noir, Underwood Mountain Vineyard, Columbia Gorge (WA), $24, QPR: 5
2008 Viento Riesling, Columbia Gorge Vineyard, Columbia Gorge (OR), $16, QPR: 4
2008 Phelps Creek Unoaked Chardonnay, Columbia Gorge (WA/OR), $18, QPR: 4
2007 The Pines 1852 Tres Syrah, Columbia Gorge (WA/OR), $22, QPR: 4
2007 Domaine Pouillon Pierre (Syrah/Cab), Horse Heaven Hills (WA), $24, QPR: 4
2008 Syncline Columbia Valley Syrah, Columbia Valley (WA), $25, QPR: 4
2008 Syncline Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge (WA), $28, QPR: 4
2007 The Pines 1852 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Gorge (OR), $30, QPR: 4
2008 Phelps Creek Oak Ridge Vineyard Gewurztraminer, Columbia Gorge (WA), $17, QPR: 3
2008 The Pines 1852 Pinot Gris, Columbia Gorge (WA), $18, QPR: 3
2009 Alba Cor Pinot Gris/Gewurztraminer, Celilo Vineyard, Columbia Gorge (WA), $18, QPR: 3
2008 Memaloose Idiot’s Grace Cabernet Franc, Columbia Gorge (OR), $25, QPR: 3
2008 Syncline McKinley Springs Syrah, McKinley Springs Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills (WA), $30, QPR: 3
2008 The Pines 1852 Old Vine Zinfandel, Columbia Valley (OR), $38, QPR: 3
2006 Cathedral Ridge Cabernet Reserve, Columbia Valley (OR), $44, QPR: 3
2009 Phelps Creek “Fleur de Roy” Rosé of Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge (OR), $20, QPR: 2
2008 Syncline Roussanne, Horse Heaven Hills (WA), $22, QPR: 2
2008 Cathedral Ridge Reserve Chardonnay, Columbia Valley (OR), $36, QPR: 2
2006 Cathedral Ridge Syrah Reserve, Columbia Valley (OR), $44, QPR: 2
2007 Cathedral Ridge Rock Star Red (Cab/Syrah), Columbia Valley (OR), $44, QPR: 1

Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
2007 The Pines 1852 Big Red (Cab/Mer/Syrah/Zin/Grenache), Columbia Valley (OR), $20, QPR: 4
2007 Cor Cabernet Sauvignon, McKinley Springs Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills (WA), $25, QPR: 4
2005 Viento Nocturne Dessert Wine (Touriga), Lonesome Spring Ranch, Columbia Valley (WA), $36 [375ml], QPR: 4
2007 Cathedral Ridge Bordheauxd Red (Syrah/Cab/Merlot), Columbia Valley (OR), $26, QPR: 3
2008 Phelps Creek Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge (WA/OR), $29, QPR: 3
2009 Syncline Rosé, Columbia Valley (WA), $16, QPR: 2
2008 Memaloose Trevitt’s White (Viognier/Chardonnay), Columbia Valley (WA), $17, QPR: 2
2008 Domaine Pouillon Deux (Chardonnay/Viognier), Columbia Valley (WA), $18.25, QPR: 2
2007 Cathedral Ridge Syrah, Columbia Valley (OR), $32, QPR: 2
2008 Memaloose Barbera, Columbia Gorge (OR), $20, QPR: 1
2009 Viento Grüner Veltliner, Underwood Mountain Vineyard, Columbia Gorge (WA), $20, QPR: 1
2007 Cathedral Ridge Zinfandel Reserve, Columbia Valley (OR), $38, QPR: 1
2007 Phelps Creek Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Columbia Gorge (OR), $42, QPR: 1
2006 Cathedral Ridge Pinot Noir Reserve, Columbia Valley (OR), $52, QPR: 1

Quality: 2.5 stars (out of 5)
2008 Cor Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia View Vineyard, Columbia Gorge (OR), $10, QPR: NR
2008 Domaine Pouillon Blanc du Moulin (Roussanne/Viognier), Horse Heaven Hills (WA), $17, QPR: NR
2008 The Pines 1852 Viognier, Columbia Valley (OR), $18, QPR: NR
2008 Cor Momentum Red Blend, Horse Heaven Hills (WA), $18, QPR: NR
2007 Cor Cabernet Franc, Alder Ridge Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills (WA), $22, QPR: NR

Since we live in Washington State and often drink wines from Washington State, we want to make sure that we continue to hone our knowledge of the entire world of wine and maintain well-rounded palates in order to make us even more objective when we evaluate wines from Washington State. Therefore, we are thoroughly enjoying our Wine Peeps Tasting Group which includes what we think is an excellent peer group of knowledgeable wine lovers to taste, share, and learn more about wine together. Unlike our monthly wine tasting dinners in which the guests rotate, this tasting group includes people who are committed to getting together once a month which we believe benefits all of us. In addition to trying varieties and regions that we do not taste frequently, the other main difference between this group and our wine tasting dinners is that each group member brings a bottle consistent with the month’s theme so no one knows all the wines in the blind tasting.

Last week, we met and explored Gigondas. The Gigondas AOC is located in the southern Rhône of France. It is primarily a red wine region with a small amount of rosé wine produced. Gigondas is like a little brother to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. According to the INAO, Gigondas red wine is to be made from a maximum of 80 percent Grenache, a minimum 15 percent Syrah and/or Mourvedre, and a maximum 10 percent from the other Rhône varietals, minus Carignan. Gigondas is formerly a Côtes du Rhone-Villages and was the first to achieve cru status. Gigondas is known for its power rather than its elegance. Some parts of the region are warmer than Châteauneuf-du-Pape, bringing the Grenache grape close to fortified strength in alcohol. The greatest Gigondas wines can be kept for ten years or more in the cellar and usually benefit from at least three years of aging.

We tasted six wines and the unanimous favorite was the 2007 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas. Saint Cosme is one of the oldest estates in the Gigondas region. Lying on the site of an ancient Gallo-Roman villa, which probably had its own vineyard, Saint Cosme was officially established by the Barruol family in 1570. Saint Cosme’s current winemaker, Louis Barruol, is considered one of the southern Rhône’s most talented young winemakers.

Well, it was bound to happen. As you’ll notice in the tasting notes below, we had two bottles of the exact same wine, the 2006 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas, and they were not rated or ranked the same way. The crazy thing is that these two wines tasted nothing alike. Even after we unveiled them and re-tasted the two wines, we all thought that they were very different. We examined the bottles to see if we could determine if the wines were from different lots. From what we could tell on the bottles, they appeared to be the same, same wine, same vintage, same lot. Even so, they were both good. It is not as if one of the bottles was flawed; they were simply different. One possible explanation is that the two corks have had different oxidation rates. Just one of the many things that keeps the world of wine interesting.

If you’ve never had a Gigondas or are looking for a more economical alternative to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, I encourage you to give Gigondas a try.

From 1st to last in the group consensus rankings:

2007 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas (Gigondas, Rhône Valley, France): 67% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, and 1% Cinsault. Deep, purplish red. Very aromatic with gorgeous red fruit aromas. Red and black fruits, spice, and pepper come through on the palate. Medium to full-bodied and lively with medium to high, chewy tannins. Well-balanced with a long finish.
Quality: 4.5 stars (out of five)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Esquin Wine Merchants (Seattle, Washington), $38; Available elsewhere, $28 to $45

2006 Saint-Damien Gigondas (Gigondas, Rhône Valley, France): Medium-deep ruby red. Nose is a bit tight at first, then red fruits and a hint of vanilla come through. Spice, black cherry, blackberry, and black plums on the palate. Medium to full-bodied and lively with medium to high tannins and a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of five)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Fred Meyer (Seattle, Washington), $28.99; Available elsewhere, $24 to $33

2006 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas (Gigondas, Rhône Valley, France): 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 14% Syrah, and 1% Mourvedre. Medium ruby red. Very aromatic with distinctive floral, kiwi fruit, and guava aromas. Cherry, raspberry, and a hint of tropical flavors. Medium to full-bodied and crisp with medium, drying tannins, and a long finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of five)
QPR: 3 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Fred Meyer (Seattle, Washington), $32.99; Available elsewhere, $25 to $26

2006 Perrin & Fils Gigondas La Gille (Gigondas, Rhône Valley, France): Medium-deep ruby red. Cherry and cinnamon on the nose; cherry, raspberry, and red plum on the palate. Medium to full-bodied and crisp with medium tannins. Well-balanced and smooth with a long finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of five)
QPR: 3 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Fred Meyer (Seattle, Washington), $30.79; Available elsewhere, $20 to $29

2006 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas (Gigondas, Rhône Valley, France): 70% Grenache, 15% Cinsault, 14% Syrah, and 1% Mourvedre. Medium ruby red. Nose is a bit tight, only alcohol on the nose at first. Red fruits, particularly strawberries and raspberries, on the palate. Medium-bodied and crisp with medium tannins, and a long, slightly bitter, finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of five)
QPR: 3 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Fred Meyer (Seattle, Washington), $32.99; Available elsewhere, $25 to $26

2006 Domaine Les Pallieres Gigondas (Gigondas, Rhône Valley, France): Medium ruby red. Moderate red fruit aromas. Tasted a bit like cherry cough syrup. Medium-bodied and crisp with medium tannins and a long, bitter finish. Slight effervescence on the back end and a bit hot.
Quality: 3 stars (out of five)
QPR: 2 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Available from various retailers, $25 to $40

Saviah Cellars is a family-owned winery located south of downtown Walla Walla, Washington, near the Oregon state line in the Walla Walla Valley AVA. Owner/winemaker Richard Funk and his wife Anita, both natives of Montana, moved to Walla Walla in 1991. Rich became acquainted with a number of the area wineries while working as an Environmental Health Specialist with the Walla Walla County Health Department. Through his work at the Health Department on water quality and wastewater issues, he got a firsthand look at the vineyards in the area and developed a relationship with a number of local winemakers who helped him get his start in the industry. Saviah Cellars was founded in 2000 and currently produces about 9,500 cases per year. The name Saviah is a family name from Anita’s great-grandmother.

We selected Saviah Cellars as our Best Washington Winery of 2009. Recently, we had the opportunity to taste six current releases from Saviah in a blind samples tasting. Our favorite was the 2008 Malbec, followed closely by the 2007 Red Mountain Syrah and the 2006 Petit Verdot, but we would recommend all six wines. And two of the wines, the Malbec and the Cabernet Sauvignon, received a QPR rating of 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5).

One of the things that I really admire about Rich’s winemaking style is that he strives for elegance rather than over-extracted huge wines. As a winemaker, he is all about the fruit, but his wines are not fruit bombs. Rich’s wines show balance, complexity, and elegance. Not only is Rich making some great wines, but he is an extremely nice guy to boot. If you are in the Walla Walla area, Saviah Cellars is a winery that you should definitely visit. And even if you aren’t able to visit, be sure to try some Saviah wines.

2008 Saviah Cellars Malbec (Walla Walla Valley, Washington): Deep, dark purple in color. Very aromatic with black fruits, spice, and licorice on the nose; more black fruits, spice, and black pepper on the palate. Medium to full-bodied and crisp with medium to high tannins and a long finish. Well-balanced with a lot of layers.
Quality: 4.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $30

2007 Saviah Cellars Red Mountain Syrah (Red Mountain, Washington): Deep, dark purple and aromatic. Vanilla and oak aromas lead to blackberry and licorice flavors. Medium to full-bodied with crisp acidity and medium to high tannins. Well-balanced with a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $30

2006 Saviah Cellars Petit Verdot (Walla Walla Valley, Washington): Deep, dark, inky purple. Very aromatic with prunes, earth, and blackberry on the nose; black fruits, particularly plums, and licorice on the palate. Medium to full-bodied and lively with medium tannins. Well-balanced with good complexity and a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 3 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $35

2007 Saviah Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley, Washington): Deep, dark red in color. Very aromatic with black cherry and vanilla aromas that lead to more black cherry and blackcurrant flavors. Medium to full-bodied and lively with medium to high, drying tannins, and a long finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $28; Available elsewhere, $25 to $30

2007 Saviah Cellars The Jack Red Wine (Columbia Valley, Washington): Deep, purplish red. Ripe red and black fruit aromas lead to jammy, sweet black fruit flavors. Medium to full-bodied with crisp acidity, medium tannins, and a long finish.
Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $18; Available elsewhere, $17 to $23

2007 Saviah Cellars Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla Valley, Washington): Deep, purplish red. Aromatic with oak and creosote aromas. Black fruits and a hint of pepper come through on the palate. Medium-bodied and lively with medium tannins and a long finish.
Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 2 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $28; Available elsewhere, $24

The 2010 Iron Vintner Challenge, hosted by Willows Lodge in Woodinville, Washington, features cooking competitions that occur on three consecutive Wednesdays in June at Fireside Cellars, followed by a Championship Winemaker Dinner at Barking Frog to benefit Little Bit Therapeutic Riding Center. Participating local Woodinville winemakers include: Mark McNeilly of Mark Ryan Winery, Brennon Leighton of EFESTE, Darby English of Darby Winery, and Tim Stevens of Stevens Winery.

Each winemaker and their partner will be given a box of products selected by Barking Frog’s Executive Chef Bobby Moore from which to create an appetizer and an entrée in 60 minutes. A panel of judges will sample the competitors’ dishes and select a winner each week based on presentation, flavor, and creativity.

Select Wednesdays throughout June:

June 2, 5:30–7pm

• Preliminary Round 1: Mark McNeilly of Mark Ryan Winery vs. Brennon Leighton of EFESTE

June 9, 5:30–7pm

• Preliminary Round 2: Tim Stevens of Stevens Winery vs. Darby English of Darby Winery

June 16, 5:30–7pm

• Championship: Winner of Round 1 vs. Winner of Round 2

June 23, 7pm

• Championship Dinner at Barking Frog: All participating winemakers attend

Each of the cooking competitions in the Iron Vintner Challenge are $25 per person and include one glass of “sommelier’s choice” wine. To attend the final Championship Winemaker Dinner, it is $135 per person. For additional information or to make a reservation, visit the Willows Lodge website.

I hope to see you there. I will be serving as a “Celebrity Tweeter” for the Preliminary Rounds on June 2nd and June 9th. If you are unable to attend, be sure to follow my tweets @winepeeps.

Cheers!

This week’s Wine Word of the Week is trellis systems.

Official definition from Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine:
Trellis systems are support structures for the vine framework required for a given training system. Normally, these are man made, although vines are still occasionally trained to trees. The trellis system in its simplest form consists of a stake driven beside a vine to which the vine trunk or shoots are tied. Nowadays wires are used to support vines and foliage, as posts are installed at intervals along the row.

Layman’s terms from Kori:
Trellis systems encompass the stakes, posts, wires, and other support structures that a grapevine is attached to in a given vine training system.

When you attend a large public event like Taste Washington, there are a handful of wineries where the lines are extremely long and the wine runs out quickly. DeLille Cellars is in that elite group.

DeLille Cellars, located in Woodinville, Washington, was founded in 1992 by the late Charles Lill and his son Greg, along with former wine broker Jay Soloff and winemaker Chris Upchurch. It all started with three friends sitting around talking wine and then writing up a business plan for a winery on a napkin. Their discussion was about how to produce the very best handcrafted, old-world style red and white wines made in the state of Washington. Since the three friends needed financial backing for their winery venture, Greg Lill met with his father, Charles, by then retired, to ask him to invest in the new business. Charles liked the idea, and the family agreed to give it a try. As they say, the rest is history. DeLille Cellars was the fourth winery in Woodinville and the beginning of a wave of boutique wineries in the area.

DeLille Cellars began producing wine in 1992, sourcing grapes from Washington’s finest vineyards, including Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval, Boushey, Portteus, and Sagemoor. They renovated an 800 square-foot farmhouse on land owned by Charles and Lori Lill in the mid 1990s, and opened their state-of-the-art 7,000 square-foot chateau for business in 1998. As the winery expanded, the partners added their own 20-acre vineyard on Red Mountain called Grand Ciel.

Bordeaux-style blend wines from Washington State have grown in stature due in no small part to the winemaking techniques of DeLille’s Chris Upchurch (Executive Winemaker/Vineyard Manager/Owner-Partner). A self-confessed Francophile and a blender, Chris talks about his wines in terms of a “complete wine.” Qualities like opulence, mouthfeel, balance, and elegance are much more important to him than specific fruit or spice descriptors. Since 2003, Chris Peterson has assisted Upchurch and now holds the title of winemaker at DeLille.

Recently, Kori and I attended a Capital Grille Seattle Winemaker Wednesday event that featured DeLille Cellars. Partner and Marketing Director Jay Soloff, one of the original founders, poured two of DeLille’s flagship wines, the 2007 Chaleur Estate and the 2007 Harrison Hill. Although both of the wines were good, we preferred the Chaleur Estate.  The 2007 vintage is the third vintage of DeLille wines that we have tasted, including both the Doyenne and DeLille lines. We have found all of their wines to be good to excellent, 3 stars (out of 5) or better; but the QPRs with one exception have not been that high, meaning that the wines don’t give you as much “bang for the buck” as we’d like.

2007 DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate (Red Mountain, Washington): 65.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 7.5% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. Deep, dark purple. Aromatic with hints of blackcurrants and blackberries. Both black and blue fruits on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with lively acidity, and medium, sweet tannins. Well-balanced and smooth with a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 1 bang for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $75

2007 DeLille Cellars Harrison Hill (Snipes Mountain, Yakima Valley, Washington): 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Dark purple in color. Very dark fruit and bitter baker’s chocolate on the nose and palate. Medium to full-bodied with lively acidity, chewy tannins, and a long finish.
Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 1 bang for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $75

Historically open only for releases and special events, DeLille now has a tasting room called The Carriage House that is open from 12:00–4:30pm daily. Put DeLille on your schedule the next time you are visiting wineries in Woodinville. It’s an icon of Washington wine.

(Photos from DeLille Cellars)

Would you like a quick suggestion for a good wine to drink tonight (or this weekend) that won’t break your budget and is widely available? Many of our readers have said this is something they would like, so here is this week’s selection, the 2009 Corvidae Crowe White Blend from the Columbia Valley of Washington State.

Our selection criteria include:

• A very good Quality rating of >=3.5 stars (out of 5)
• A price tag of <=$15
• Must be widely available

Corvidae Wine Company, located in Sunnyside, Washington, is a relatively new label in the Owen Roe Winery portfolio. All of the wines are produced with Oregon and Washington fruit and retail for under $20. In Latin, Corvidae is the name for the family of birds that includes the crow, raven, jay, and magpie, birds that can often be found in Eastern Washington vineyards. Each of the Corvidae wines feature a bird and literary quote on the label. This line of wines is yet another excellent offering from winemaker David O’Reilly.

“This crisp and delightful White Blend is comprised entirely of Columbia Valley fruit. The Sauvignon Blanc provides a framework of classic fresh cut hay aromas, the Riesling and Pinot Gris balance the profile with tropical guava and peach notes, and the Muscat adds just a hint of orange peel.” –Corvidae Wine Company

2009 Corvidae Crowe White Blend (Columbia Valley, Washington): 48% Sauvignon Blanc, 19% Chenin Blanc, 18% Riesling, 13% Pinot Gris, 2% Muscat. Pale, greenish yellow. Very aromatic with beautiful floral aromas. More floral notes, apples, pears, lemon, and lime come through on the palate. Dry and light to medium-bodied with crisp acidity. Well-balanced with a long finish. A wonderful summer sipper, with or without food.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $12; Available elsewhere, $10 to $12