Book Review: The Wine Project—Washington State’s Winemaking History



By John ~ August 17th, 2009

The Wine Project—Washington State’s Winemaking History by Ronald Irvine with Walter J. CloreAs a student of history as well as Washington wine, it was probably inevitable that I eventually found a copy of this book, The Wine Project—Washington State’s Winemaking History by Ronald Irvine with Walter J. Clore. Ronald Irvine founded Pike and Western Wine Shop in Seattle in 1975. In 1991, he sold his ownership and began working at Vashon Winery, where he is now owner/winemaker. Dr. Walter Clore is generally recognized as the “father” of Washington’s wine industry. This book is basically a compilation of notes and observations that Ron Irvine made as a result of a series of trips he and Dr. Clore took through Washington wine country between 1992 and 1996, reliving its history and visiting with some of its pioneers.

Because this book was published in 1997 and is no longer in distribution, it was not that easy to find. Thankfully, I was able to locate a couple of copies, autographed by the authors, through Amazon. It was definitely worth the search. Until reading this book, I thought that the wine industry in Washington started in the 1950’s and 60’s with Associated Vintners (now Columbia Winery) and American Wine Growers (now Chateau Ste. Michelle). But I found out from this book that the first known planting of grapevines in what is today Washington State was at Fort Vancouver in 1825, and the first Washington winery was founded in 1874 by John Galler of East Wenatchee.

I was fascinated as Ron Irvine described how the Washington wine industry was profoundly and irreversibly changed by four almost simultaneous developments during the 1950’s and 1960’s:

  1. The state legislature passed what was known as the California Wine Bill that paved the way for varietal wines.
  2. The sheer competitive drive of American Wine Growers and its refusal to be outdone by California or any Washington upstart.
  3. The remarkable home winemaker group that started Associated Vintners and produced the state’s first premium wines.
  4. The Wine Project, led by Dr. Clore with important contributions by Vere Brummund, George Carter, and Chas Nagel, that linked winemakers with grape growers through the extraordinary research efforts at the Prosser Research and Extension Center.

I was shocked to read that by 1973 there were effectively only two active wineries left in the state, American Wine Growers and Associated Vintners.  Everyone else was out of business or close to being out of business. In fact, it wasn’t until 1986 that the Washington wine industry out-produced its previous best year of 1947. And if AWG visionary Wally Opdycke hadn’t been able to attract venture capital from U.S. Tobacco, we certainly would not have the wine industry we have in Washington State today. Fortunately, U.S. Tobacco had deep pockets and was willing to let Opdycke implement his visionary business plan. As they say, the rest is history.

The remainder of the book describes the tremendous growth of the Washington wine industry since 1973 and the stories of some of the most prominent growers, winemakers, and wineries since then. I really enjoyed reading about the contributions of people like Mike Wallace, Bill Preston, Rob Griffin, Fred Artz, Mike Sauer, Tom Hedges, David Lake, Mike Hogue, Alec Bayless, Mike Januik, Charlie Hoppes, Doug Gore, Rick Small, Gary Figgins, Alex Golitzin, Allen Shoup, and many, many others too numerous to mention. It is also very sobering to read the stories of the many growers and winemakers who for one reason or another have fallen by the wayside despite their important contributions to the state’s wine industry, which now numbers over 650 wineries and 350 growers.

If you appreciate Washington State wine, you’ll love this book. I think I’ll go and drink a glass of Columbia Crest Walter Clore Reserve as a toast to the man and to the future.



Filed under: American Wine, Washington State Wine, Wine Books
 

Canadian Wine Country: A Weekend in the Okanagan Valley



By Kori ~ August 14th, 2009

Vineyards in the Okanagan Valley, B.C.We recently spent a long weekend in the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia, Canada, relaxing, visiting family friends, and of course, wine tasting. The Okanagan Valley is Canada’s most well-known wine region. Located about 100 miles east of Vancouver, B.C., it is about a six hour drive from Seattle. The Okanagan Valley stretches over 100 kilometers from the United States-Canada border near Osoyoos north to Salmon Arm.

On this particular trip, we spent our time in the South Okanagan around the towns of Osoyoos, Oliver, Penticton, and Naramata. We visited a total of nine wineries and tasted 69 wines. Many of the area wineries boast gorgeous settings overlooking one of three lakes, Osoyoos Lake, Skaha Lake, and Okanagan Lake. For overall wine quality, our best stops were at Inniskillin and Jackson-Triggs. Both Inniskillin and Jackson-Triggs are owned by Vincor Canada, a division of Constellation Brands.

Icewines at Inniskillin OkanaganInniskillin Okanagan was acquired in 1996 by Inniskillin Niagara. Except for the same ownership, Inniskillin Okanagan and Inniskillin Niagara are run as separate entities with their own winemakers and own vineyards. Inniskillin Okanagan uses all B.C. grown grapes and produces about 25,000 cases per year. They make good wines across the board but are particularly well-known for their icewines.

Jackson-Triggs is arguably Canada’s most celebrated winery. Founded in the 1980s by Allan Jackson and Don Triggs, Jackson-Triggs produces between 100,000 and 120,000 cases per year. We would easily recommend all nine of their wines that we tasted but were particularly impressed with their icewines and Shirazes.

The countryside is beautiful, the locals are extremely nice folks, and all nine wineries we visited had well-equipped tasting rooms. Every winery provided a take-home tasting sheet with their wine information on it, most provided water and crackers to cleanse your palate, and a few even provided personal spit cups in addition to dump buckets. In addition to the tasting room amenities, the region itself is very visitor-friendly with excellent wine route signage that points travelers to the local wineries.

Tasting Room at Jackson-TriggsThe only downside is that many of the wineries in the Okanagan Valley do not export their wines to the United States. Obviously, you can buy the wine when you visit and bring it home with you (you’ll have to pay some taxes depending on how much you bring back), but you won’t be able to go down the street to your local wine shop and pick up a bottle of your favorite Okanagan Valley wine on a regular basis.

For those of you who live in the Pacific Northwest or are planning to visit, make time to venture north to visit wineries in the Okanagan Valley. You’ll be glad you did.

Here’s a breakdown of the wines that we tasted in the Okanagan Valley. Under each Quality heading, the wine name and region will be listed along with price and QPR rating. Wines in bold type received a QPR rating of 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5).

Quality: 4.5 stars (out of 5)
2007 Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $60 [375ml], QPR: 4
2007 Inniskillin Tempranillo Icewine Discovery Series, Okanagan Valley, $99.99 [375ml], QPR: 2

Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
2006 Township 7 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $24.99, QPR: 5
2006 Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Shiraz, Okanagan Valley, $25.99, QPR: 5
2005 Hester Creek Reserve Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $25.99, QPR: 5
2006 Mistral Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley, $29.90, QPR: 5

2006 Lang Vineyards Riesling Farm Reserve, Okanagan Valley, $19.90, QPR: 4
2006 Inniskillin Malbec Discovery Series, Okanagan Valley, $24.99, QPR: 4
2006 Hester Creek Reserve Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $25.99, QPR: 4
2006 Jackson-Triggs SunRock Vineyard Shiraz, Okanagan Valley, $35, QPR: 4
2008 Gehringer Brothers Minus 9 Ehrenfelser Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $46.99 [375ml], QPR: 4
2007 Inniskillin Vidal Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $52.99 [375ml], QPR: 3
2006 Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Reserve Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $52.99 [375ml], QPR: 3

Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
2006 Tinhorn Creek Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $18.99, QPR: 5
2007 Tinhorn Creek Kerner Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $24.99 [375ml], QPR: 5
2006 Township 7 Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley, $25.99, QPR: 5

2007 Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $17.99, QPR: 4
2006 Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Reserve Shiraz, Okanagan Valley, $19.99, QPR: 4
2006 Township 7 Syrah, Okanagan Valley, $24.99, QPR: 4
2005 Hester Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley, $34.99, QPR: 4
2008 Hester Creek Late Harvest Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley, $14.99, QPR: 3
2008 Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Reserve Rosé, Okanagan Valley, $14.99, QPR: 3
2007 Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Reserve Viognier, Okanagan Valley, $15.99, QPR: 3
2008 Hester Creek Semillon Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, $15.99, QPR: 3
2008 Gehringer Brothers Dry Rock Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley, $15.99, QPR: 3
2006 Inniskillin Chenin Blanc Discovery Series, Okanagan Valley, $16.99, QPR: 3
2007 Lang Vineyards Grand Pinot White, British Columbia, $18.90, QPR: 3
2006 Inniskillin Meritage Single Vineyard Series Dark Horse Estate Vineyard, Okanagan Valley, $24.99, QPR: 3
2007 Gehringer Brothers Riesling Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $46.99 [375ml], QPR: 3
2005 Mistral Grand Reserve, Okanagan Valley, $39.90, QPR: 2
2007 Mistral Gamay Icewine, Similkameen Valley, $54.90 [375ml], QPR: 2

Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
2007 Gehringer Brothers Late Harvest Riesling, Okanagan Valley, $17.99, QPR: 5
2007 Hester Creek Chardonnay, British Columbia, $13.99, QPR: 4
2007 Gehringer Brothers Dry Rock Vineyard Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $14.99, QPR: 4
2007 Gehringer Brothers Dry Rock Vineyard Cabernet Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $14.99, QPR: 4
2007 Hester Creek Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $16.99, QPR: 4
2006 Lang Vineyards Grand Pinot Red, Okanagan Valley, $19.90, QPR: 4
2008 Gehringer Brothers Optimum Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, $20.99, QPR: 4
2006 Inniskillin Cabernet Sauvignon Single Vineyard Series Dark Horse Estate Vineyard, Okanagan Valley, $24.99, QPR: 4
2007 Jackson-Triggs Proprietors’ Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley, $13.99, QPR: 3
2008 Gehringer Brothers Private Reserve Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, $14.99, QPR: 3
2008 Tinhorn Creek Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, $17.99, QPR: 3
2007 Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve White Meritage, Okanagan Valley, $21.99, QPR: 3
2008 Gehringer Brothers Cabernet Franc Icewine, Okanagan Valley, $47.99 [375ml], QPR: 3
2007 Township 7 Rosé, British Columbia, $15.99, QPR: 2
2008 Hester Creek Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, $16.99, QPR: 2
2006 Mistral Cabernet Franc, British Columbia, $26.90, QPR: 2
2004 Mistral Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $29.90, QPR: 2
2007 Burrowing Owl Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $30, QPR: 2
2008 Lang Vineyards Marechal Foch, Okanagan Valley, $17.90, QPR: 1
2008 Hester Creek Trebbiano, Okanagan Valley, $18.99, QPR: 1
2007 Township 7 Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley, $18.99, QPR: 1
2007 Township 7 Gewurztraminer, Okanagan Valley, $18.99, QPR: 1
2006 Lang Vineyards Late Harvest Gewurztraminer, Okanagan Valley, $19.90, QPR: 1

Quality: 2.5 stars (out of 5)
2008 Gehringer Brothers Dry Riesling, Okanagan Valley, $13.99, QPR: NR
2008 Gehringer Brothers Auxerrois, Okanagan Valley, $13.99, QPR: NR
2007 Hester Creek Cabernet Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $15.99, QPR: NR
2008 Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, $16.50, QPR: NR
2008 Tinhorn Creek Gewurztraminer, Okanagan Valley, $16.50, QPR: NR
2007 Gehringer Brothers Late Harvest Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley, $16.99, QPR: NR
2007 Mistral Viognier, British Columbia, $17.90, QPR: NR
2008 Township 7 Unoaked Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, $17.99, QPR: NR
2006 Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Merlot, Okanagan Valley, $17.99, QPR: NR
2007 Lang Vineyards Gewurztraminer, British Columbia, $18.90, QPR: NR
2008 Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, $20, QPR: NR
2006 Lang Vineyards Signature Series Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley, $22.90, QPR: NR
2007 Inniskillin Marsanne Roussanne Discovery Series, Okanagan Valley, $24.99, QPR: NR
2007 Burrowing Owl Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, $25, QPR: NR

Quality: 2 stars (out of 5)
2007 Tinhorn Creek Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, $18.99, QPR: NR



Filed under: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Canadian Wine, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Dessert Wine, Five-Bangs For Your Buck Wines, Gewurztraminer, Lesser Known Varietals, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Red Wine, Riesling, Rose Wine, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Shiraz/Syrah, Tempranillo, Viognier, White Wine, Wine Travel, Wines NOT To Buy (1 & 2 Star), Wines Over $25, Wines Under $15, Wines Under $20, Wines Under $25
 

Wine Word of the Week: Sulfur dioxide



By Kori ~ August 13th, 2009

Wine Word of the WeekThis week’s Wine Word of the Week is sulfur dioxide.

Official definition from Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine:
Sulfur dioxide, or SO2, formed when elemental sulfur is burned in air, is the chemical compound most widely used by the winemaker, principally as a preservative and a disinfectant. ….

Sulfur dioxide reacts with oxygen and so prevents oxidation, which has undesirable effects on the color and flavor of wine. ….

The disadvantage of using sulfur dioxide is that its aroma can be quite unpleasant even at fairly low concentrations, especially to some particularly sensitive tasters.

Layman’s terms from Kori:
Sulfur dioxide, or SO2, is important in winemaking because it prevents spoilage, browning, and oxidation. However, an aroma of burnt matches in a wine is an indication of too much SO2 and is considered a wine fault.



Filed under: Wine Word of the Week
 

Wine Blogging Wednesday #60: I Have Zinned



By Kori ~ August 12th, 2009

Mom's complete Texas BBQ mealOur host for the August edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday, the blogosphere’s monthly virtual wine tasting event, is Sonadora of Wannabe Wino. She selected I Have Zinned as this month’s theme because she loves Zinfandel and it pairs well with summer BBQ and other grilled fare. We were asked to “pull out a Zinfandel, throw something on the grill (or the Foreman or in a pan if you don’t have either), and tell me about your favorite grilled or BBQ’d food and how it goes with Zinfandel.”

When I read Sonadora’s theme, I knew immediately that this was the perfect excuse to indulge in leftovers from Mom’s Fourth of July BBQ. We interrupt this wine blog post for a little BBQ education from a native Texan. There is a distinct difference between real BBQ and anything cooked on a grill outside. Hamburgers and hot dogs are not BBQ; neither is roast beef with lots of BBQ sauce slathered on top. Real BBQ is smoked by slow-cooking the meat in a pit over indirect heat. And let me tell you, it is soooooo good!

Since moving to Seattle fifteen years ago, it is the rare occasion that I’m able to enjoy real BBQ. Once a year on the Fourth of July, Mom cooks a complete Texas BBQ meal. Depending on the number of guests we have joining us for the holiday, she cooks for at least one full day, sometimes two. She mesquite smokes beef brisket, pork ribs, and Luling sausages. For sides, she prepares baked beans, potato salad, coleslaw, garlic bread, and her secret recipe BBQ sauce. And as if that’s not enough food, we top it all off with her homemade banana pudding. Since she only prepares this meal once a year, she always smokes extra meat so that we can enjoy leftovers once or twice during the year.

Washington Zinfandel: 2005 Forgeron and 2006 Columbia Crest ReserveZinfandel pairs well with almost all grilled meats, whether it is real BBQ, hamburgers, or even hot dogs. For most people, Zinfandel is synonymous with California, and California definitely does Zinfandel well. However, as regular Wine Peeps readers know, we are tireless advocates for Washington State wines so we decided to blind taste two Washington Zinfandels, the 2005 Forgeron and the 2006 Columbia Crest Reserve. Zinfandel acreage is limited in Washington right now, but more and more wineries are attempting to produce at least small amounts of Zinfandel. Both of these wines show the potential for Zinfandel in the state. All four of us enjoyed both wines, but we thought the Forgeron was excellent. Zinfandels can often be high in alcohol but neither of these wines seemed particularly hot. They were both fabulous with Mom’s BBQ because they really stood up to the rich food without overpowering it.

2005 Forgeron Zinfandel (Columbia Valley, Washington): Deep, dark red with loads of black cherry on the nose. Luscious black fruits, especially plums, licorice, and a hint of black pepper come though on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with medium tannins. Well-balanced and smooth with a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to Buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $30; MadWine (Washington), $27.99

2006 Columbia Crest Reserve Zinfandel Stone Tree Vineyard (Columbia Valley, Washington): Dark purple. Aromas of sweet BBQ sauce and eucalyptus; flavors of dark cherry and bittersweet chocolate. Medium-bodied with medium tannins. A bit jammy with a long finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 3 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to Buy: Winery, $35



Filed under: American Wine, Red Wine, Washington State Wine, Wine Blogging Wednesday, Wines Over $25, Zinfandel
 

Spotlight On: Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars



By Kori ~ August 10th, 2009

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, located in Napa, California, was founded by Warren Winiarski in 1970. Bitten by the wine bug when he spent a year studying in Italy, Warren and his family moved to California in the early 1960s to pursue his winemaking dream. He gained experience working for Souverain Cellars and then Robert Mondavi Winery before purchasing his own land which became Stag’s Leap Vineyard (S.L.V.).

Best known for its estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignons, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars became famous for besting four French Bordeaux in the 1976 Judgment of Paris when its 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon took top honors.

In 2007, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars was acquired by a joint partnership between Ste. Michelle Wine Estates of Washington State and Marchesi Antinori of Italy. Founder Warren Winiarski remains involved in an advisory role. Current winemaker Nicki Pruss joined Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars in 1998 as an intern and worked her way up to being named winemaker in 2005.

During the recent Wine Bloggers Conference, we had the pleasure to spend a day in the Napa Valley and visit Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars for lunch followed by a Napa Green presentation. Napa Green is a voluntary program developed by the Napa Valley Vintners that establishes comprehensive “best practices” in land-use and wine production. Vineyard manager Kirk Grace took us on a vineyard tour and discussed how Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars handles various environmental issues.

Here are some key clips from Kirk’s Napa Green presentation:



Filed under: American Wine, California Wine, Spotlight On, Video, Vineyards, Wine Activities/Events
 

Hitting the Wine Bars in Seattle: A Good Way to Taste and Learn



By John ~ August 7th, 2009

The Local VineMost Wednesday nights for the past two months have been “date night” for LaGayle and me at a local wine bar. We picked a different one each Wednesday and evaluated them in five different categories: first impression, service, wine, food, and value. It was fun; we met some friendly folks, found some good new wines, and plan to continue “date night” indefinitely. I hope some of you will join us in visiting your local wine bars.

Here’s a list of the seven wine bars we visited in order of our overall rating:

  1. The Local Vine
  2. Smash Wine Bar and Bistro
  3. Cellar 46 (Mercer Island)
  4. Purple (Seattle location)
  5. Swirl Wine Bar
  6. Poco Wine Room
  7. Grape Killers (advertised as a new wine bar, but turned out to be only a one-time event)

Our favorite, The Local Vine, is a place where you can hang out the way you would in a coffee shop while learning about or just enjoying wine. You can linger near a fireplace, or with your laptop using free Wi-Fi, while sipping wine and dining on small plates of food that pair with the wine. They have a good selection of wines by the glass, as well as wine flights, featuring Northwest and California wines along with other wines from around the world. The Local Vine is open seven days a week, with Happy Hour from 4pm-6pm and 10pm-close daily.

Smash Wine Bar and BistroIn each of the five categories, here’s our favorite wine bar(s):

First Impression
The Local Vine and Purple

Service
Smash, Cellar 46, and Swirl

Wine
The Local Vine (where we found Parejas Rosé) and Smash

Food
Purple (it was the best, but all were surprisingly good)

Value
The Local Vine (especially during happy hour) and Cellar 46. We thought Purple was way too expensive compared to the others.

Obviously, which one you might prefer will depend on what is most important to you. We’ll definitely be going back to The Local Vine, not only because we rated it the highest, but also because the other two Wine Peeps, Kori and Colby, along with their 2 ½ year old daughter could join us, because they have a kid-friendly seating area outside the bar-proper.

We’d love to hear about your favorite wine bars. If you live in Seattle, do our selections jive with yours?



Filed under: Wine Bars
 

Wine Word of the Week: Yield



By Kori ~ August 6th, 2009

Wine Word of the WeekThis week’s Wine Word of the Week is yield.

Official definition from Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine:
Yield is an important statistic in wine production, which measures how much a vineyard produces. It has been a subject of intense interest from at least the time of classical Rome.

Yield may be measured as either a weight of grapes or a volume of wine, and is usually considered per unit area of vineyard, since this is what matters in farming economics.

Layman’s terms from Kori:
Yield refers to the amount of fruit a vineyard produces, usually described in tons of grapes per acre in the U.S.



Filed under: Wine Word of the Week
 

Wine Tasting Dinner: Washington Viognier



By Kori ~ August 5th, 2009

Wine tasting dinner guests at the tableLast Friday evening was another beautiful, sunny, summer evening here in Seattle. It was the perfect night to gather with friends to enjoy a fabulous meal and good wines for one of our monthly wine tasting dinners. This month’s dinner featured Washington Viognier, a lovely white wine that’s perfect for warm weather.

Viognier (pronounced vee-oh-NYAY) is a white variety that originated in the northern Rhône in France. Viognier is known for its profound aromatics. In addition to varietal wines like we tasted in this dinner, Viognier is also used in small amounts to co-ferment with Syrah in order to enhance the aromatics of that red variety.

While everyone enjoyed all of the wines and we would recommend them all, the top two clearly stood at the head of the pack. The 2008 K Vintners Viognier and the 2008 Nefarious Defiance Vineyard Viogner are excellent wines and paired wonderfully with Mom’s dinner of squash soup with rosemary, arugula, peach, and tomato salad, curried chicken, Indian style rice, and sesame vinaigrette seasoned green bean bundles. We topped off the evening with Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d’Asti poured over vanilla ice cream.

Washington Viognier lineup: K Vintners, Nefarious, Maryhill, Benson, Seven Hills, Bergevin LaneFrom 1st to last in the group consensus rankings:

2008 K Vintners Viognier (Columbia Valley, WA): Straw yellow. Sweet citrus, peach, and apricot aromas. Citrus and peaches come through on the palate as well. Medium-bodied and lively with a long finish. Well-balanced and extremely smooth.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $20; Ultimate Wine Shop (New Jersey), $24.99

2008 Nefarious Defiance Vineyard Viognier (Columbia Valley, WA): Straw yellow. Apricot and white peach come through on both the nose and palate. Medium-bodied and crisp with a long finish. Fresh, refreshing, and smooth. Well-balanced.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $19

2007 Maryhill Viognier (Columbia Valley, WA): Pale, straw yellow. A bit tight on the nose at first. Fresh, floral aromas and flavors. Light-bodied and crisp with a long finish. This wine really improves with food.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Fred Meyer (Seattle, WA), $12; Available elsewhere, $13 to $15

2008 Benson Vineyards Viognier (Chelan County, WA): Pale, straw yellow. Citrus aromas, particularly grapefruit, dominate the nose. More citrus comes through on the palate. Medium-bodied and crisp with a long finish. Lots of acidity, shows some similarities to a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 2 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $19

2008 Seven Hills Talcott Vineyards Viognier (Columbia Valley, WA): Pale, straw yellow. Aromas of sweet citrus, cinnamon, and butternut squash. Some burnt rubber comes through on the palate. Very light-bodied and lively with a long, somewhat bitter, finish.
Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 2 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Pete’s Wine Shop—Eastside (Bellevue, WA), $16; Winery, $20

2008 Bergevin Lane Viognier (Columbia Valley, WA): Greenish, straw yellow. Aromas and flavors of popcorn, honey, and burnt toast. Medium-bodied and lively with a long, slightly bitter, finish.
Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 1 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $25; Available elsewhere, $25 to $26



Filed under: American Wine, Viognier, Washington State Wine, White Wine, Wine Tasting Dinners, Wines Over $25, Wines Under $15, Wines Under $20, Wines Under $25
 

More from WBC: A Day in Napa Valley



By Kori ~ August 4th, 2009

Our day in Napa Valley during the recent Wine Bloggers Conference was worth the price of the conference admission alone. It was the perfect mix of education, tastings, and fun.

Barry Schuler, former CEO of AOL and owner of Meteor Vineyard, delivering his keynote speech at The Culinary Institute of AmericaWe started the day at The Culinary Institute of America where we enjoyed two keynote addresses focusing on the future of blogging, social media, and wine writing.

Barry Schuler, former CEO of AOL and owner of Meteor Vineyard, was an absolute riot. He is a very knowledgeable guy in both technology and wine. His speech was filled with a lot of useful information and peppered with wisecracks that kept the audience engaged. According to Barry, the wine business has not had its Internet moment yet. However, blogging and social media have definitely disrupted traditional journalism. He concluded by saying that the current disaggregation is bound to consolidate in a new form and that every downturn leads to opportunity. Jim Gordon, editor of Wines & Vines, delivered the day’s second keynote address. His speech was mellower than Barry’s and focused more on specific wine industry story ideas for bloggers to consider covering.

Vineyards at Stag's Leap Wine CellarsAfter the keynote addresses, we split up and each bus went to its assigned winery for lunch followed by Napa Green presentations. Napa Green is a voluntary program developed by the Napa Valley Vintners that establishes comprehensive “best practices” in land-use and wine production. Our bus took us to Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, famous for besting four French Bordeaux in the 1976 Judgment of Paris. Vineyard manager Kirk Grace took us on a vineyard tour and discussed how Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars handles various environmental issues. Come back next Monday for a spotlight on Stag’s Leap including a video of Kirk’s Napa Green presentation.

Following in the Family Footstomps (L to R): Alan Viader of Viader Vineyards, Florencia Palmaz of Palmaz Vineyards, and Taylor Bartolucci of Madonna EstateOur next stop was at Palmaz Vineyards for the vintner discussion panel focused on the topic, “Following in the Family Footstomps: An Industry in Transition”. The panel included Florencia Palmaz of Palmaz Vineyards, Alan Viader of Viader Vineyards, and Taylor Bartolucci of Madonna Estate. Each of them are second generation or later in their family’s winery. Ninety-five percent of Napa Valley wineries are family-owned. While the first generation focused more on getting the wineries established and producing quality wines, this generation is focusing more on marketing and sales by utilizing social media, events, and so forth.

The entire conference group came back together in the afternoon for a grand tasting of Napa wines at Quintessa Winery. About 50 Napa Valley wineries were pouring. There were some excellent wines for sure, but I must admit that I suffered from a bit of sticker shock. See the breakdown of wines we tasted below.

Our group enjoying dinner at Domaine ChandonFollowing the tasting at Quintessa, we boarded the buses again and were taken to different wineries for dinner. Our group enjoyed an amazing dinner at Domaine Chandon including wines from Newton, O’Brien, Louis M. Martini, and Parry. Our dinner menu included sweet white corn soup, roasted beef tenderloin with summer legumes, chanterelle mushrooms and Umbrian black truffle, and was topped off with a Valrhona chocolate pate with summer berries. Each course was paired with one or more wines from the host wineries.

Many thanks to Napa Valley Vintners and the participating wineries for being such hospitable hosts. It was truly a day to remember.

Here’s a breakdown of the wines that we tasted in Napa Valley during the Wine Bloggers Conference. Under each Quality heading, the wine name and region will be listed along with price and QPR rating. Wines in bold type received a QPR rating of 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5).

Quality: 4.5 stars (out of 5)
2005 Rubicon Estate Cask Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, $75, QPR: 5
2005 Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, $175, QPR: 4

Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
2007 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay, Napa Valley, $30, QPR: 5
2006 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $50, QPR: 5

2006 Domaine Chandon Pinot Noir La Riviere, Russian River Valley, $45, QPR: 4
2006 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $55, QPR: 4
2006 Palmaz Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $100, QPR: 3
2006 Quintessa Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford, $140, QPR: 1

Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
2006 Domain Chandon Carneros Pinot Meunier, Carneros, $35, QPR: 4
NV Domaine Chandon étoile Brut, California, $65, QPR: 2
2008 Madonna Estate Pinot Grigio, Carneros, $26.50, QPR: 1
2007 Matthiasson White Wine, Napa Valley, $35, QPR: 1
2006 Peju Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley, $45, QPR: 1
2006 Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay, Napa Valley, $60, QPR: 1
2005 TOR Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, $75, QPR: 1
2006 Oakville Estate Exposure Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, $100, QPR: 1
2005 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, $100, QPR: 1
2005 Louis M. Martini Lot No. 1 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $125, QPR: 1
2006 Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, $130, QPR: 1
2006 Matthiasson Red Wine, Napa Valley, $NA, QPR: NA

Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
2005 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $27, QPR: 4
2007 O’Brien Estate Chardonnay, Napa Valley, $30, QPR: 1
2006 O’Brien Estate Merlot, Napa Valley, $40, QPR: 1
2008 Quintessa Illumination Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, $40, QPR: 1
2002 Parry Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $60, QPR: 1
2005 Ladera Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, $70, QPR: 1
2006 Viader Cabernet Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, $90, QPR: 1
2005 Matthiasson Red Wine, Napa Valley, $NA, QPR: NA

Quality: 2.5 stars (out of 5)
2005 Krupp Brothers Veraison Cabernet Sauvignon Stagecoach Vineyard, Napa Valley, $60, QPR: NR



Filed under: American Wine, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, California Wine, Chardonnay, Five-Bangs For Your Buck Wines, Lesser Known Varietals, Merlot, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Red Wine, Sauvignon Blanc, Sparkling Wine, White Wine, Wine Activities/Events, Wine Travel, Wines NOT To Buy (1 & 2 Star), Wines Over $25
 

Private Tasting: Washington Merlot



By Kori ~ August 3rd, 2009

Rows of merlot at Whitestone's Lake Roosevelt Shores Vineyard. (Photo from Whitestone Winery)Recently, we had what turned out to be a Washington Merlot showdown in one of our double blind private tasting dinners pitting the 2005 Whitestone Merlot Lake Roosevelt Shores Vineyard against the 2003 Sandhill Merlot. We all thought that both wines were excellent, but three out of the four of us gave a slight edge to the Whitestone. Nevertheless, both wines represent great buys with QPR ratings of 5 bangs for your buck. For a more complete description of how we set up these private tastings, please refer to How We Taste.

For those of you still avoiding Merlot as a result of watching Sideways, it’s time to give this noble grape another chance. Merlot is a wonderful varietal, and Washington State makes outstanding Merlot. Washington Merlot is known for its luscious cherry and berry flavors, complex aromas, and is generally higher in acidity than California Merlot.

“Merlot actually shows some muscle and flavor in Washington, two things sadly lacking in merlots from most other places.” –Paul Gregutt, Washington Wines & Wineries

2003 Sandhill MerlotWhitestone Winery is located in Wilbur, Washington, which is about 75 miles west of Spokane, and is one of the few Spokane-area wineries that were not able to participate in our tasting when we visited Spokane in May. Whitestone sent us samples after we returned home. Of those wines, we liked their 2005 Merlot best and decided to put it into our private tasting lineup to see how it would stack up against a comparable Washington Merlot. Whitestone Winery was founded in 1992 by Walter and Judy Haig. Their grapes are sourced exclusively from their estate vineyard on the shores of Lake Roosevelt.

We discovered Sandhill Winery on Red Mountain on our recent visit to the Yakima Valley. Their Merlot really impressed us when we tasted it in the tasting room, but again we wanted to see what we thought of it in a blind tasting against a peer. Sandhill Winery was founded in 1998 and was purchased by Corliss Estates earlier this year. All of their grapes, except those for one of their wines, come from their estate vineyard which was planted in 1989.

2005 Whitestone Merlot Lake Roosevelt Shores Vineyard (Columbia Valley, WA): Dark red with black fruit and chocolate aromas. Flavors of blackberry, dark chocolate, coffee, and mint. Medium to full-bodied with medium tannins and a long finish. Smooth and well-balanced.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $29; Compass Wines (Washington), $28.99

2003 Sandhill Merlot (Red Mountain, WA): Dark red with dark fruit and earthy aromas. Blackberry, licorice, black plums, and spice come through on the palate. Full-bodied with high, drying tannins, and a long finish. Big and bold, yet well-balanced.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $25



Filed under: American Wine, Five-Bangs For Your Buck Wines, Merlot, Red Wine, Washington State Wine, Wines Over $25