Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, the leading wine producer in the Tuscany region of Italy and one of the most historic and respected wine companies in the world, recently released research results of a study that showed Italian wine consumers are continuing to purchase high quality wine during the economic downturn. This study shows that the wine drinking habits of Italians differ greatly from American habits in the recession.

In May, results of similar research in the U.S. conducted by The Nielsen Group indicated that American consumers are much more likely to purchase less expensive and discounted alcoholic beverages on special offer during the downturn, and purchase the same amount they always have. The report shows that 50% of U.S. wine and spirits consumers have changed their shopping habits and are actively seeking out and shopping for deals, choosing quantity over quality. Speaking of his top-end wine, one respected U.S. winemaker who asked to remain anonymous told me:

“It’s crazy. We’re making the best wine we’ve ever made, and we can’t sell it.”

As a result, U.S. wineries are being forced to adapt to their customers’ newfound austerity by:

1. Creative discounting through their wine clubs, quantity discounts, special discount days, and free shipping offers.
2. Special emphasis on their cash cow table wine or developing a second label wine.
3. Re-labeling their top tier wine and selling it other ways, such as private label restaurant wine, in order not to dilute the brand’s premium label’s image in the marketplace.

While some winemakers won’t even admit that sales have slowed for their premium wines, have you noticed how allocation lists have opened up and deals are being made? As another winemaker said, “We have two great vintages backed up in the barrel while we’re still trying to clear out the 2003’s at a discount.” As a wine consumer, this puts you in the driver’s seat to get on those hallowed lists you’ve craved for years and buy a few special bottles that you can put away for that very special occasion.

Another disconcerting finding in the Nielsen study for wineries:

When asked about spending plans when the economy improves, the majority of consumers indicate an unwillingness to revert back to former spending habits.

While this recession may be the worst since the depression days of the 1930’s, it’s also a great opportunity for you, the wine consumer. Right now, the U.S. is the sweet spot for wine deals so keep on the alert and take advantage of these deals if, and when, you can.

This week’s Wine Word of the Week is viticulture.

Official definition from Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine:
Viticulture is the science and practice of grape culture. Viticulture is practiced consciously by viticulturists, often instinctively by grape-growers or vine-growers. Practices vary enormously around the world….

For still wines, it is arguable that the viticulturist can have a greater impact on wine quality than the winemaker since so many of the factors affecting quality are viticultural. The belief that ‘wine is made in the vineyard not the cellar’ became increasingly widespread during the 1990s.

Layman’s terms from Kori:
Viticulture is the study and science of grape growing for the purpose of making wine.

When you hear the grape varietals Barbera, Sangiovese, and Dolcetto mentioned, you probably think of Italy. These three varietals are all native to Italy but are now being grown in other parts of the world as well. While many traditional wineries make the occasional Barbera or Sangiovese varietal wine, one winery in California is focusing exclusively on producing blends from European grape varieties.

Avanguardia Wines, located in the Sierra Foothills of California, was founded in 2004 by Rob and Marilyn Chrisman. For years prior to starting Avanguardia, Rob has had an appreciation for traditional blends from European wine regions. As a result, he has been a pioneer in bringing some of the lesser known Italian varieties to the United States. He also uses varieties from Russia and France as well as some University of California crosses in his blends.

We recently had the opportunity to try three of Avanguardia’s red wines made with Italian grape varieties. I was not sure what to expect when we first received these samples but was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the wines as well as their value. Too often when U.S. wineries produce wines from lesser known varieties, they cost more than the wines made with the same varieties that have been imported from other countries. All three of the Avanguardia wines that we tasted retail for $18.

If you are looking for something different, for a wine with an interesting story behind it, then I encourage you to give Avanguardia Wines a try.

2004 Avanguardia Sangineto (Sierra Foothills, California): Sangiovese, Carmine, Montepulciano. Ruby red with petrol aromas. Strawberry flavors come through on the palate. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity and medium tannins. A really nice wine with a very long finish. Would be even better with food. Similar to a Super Tuscan wine from Italy.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $18; Winery, $18

2004 Avanguardia Ampio (Sierra Foothills, California): Refosco, Carmine, Negrara. Ruby red and very aromatic. Aromas and flavors of dried cranberries and other red fruits with a hint of pepper. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity, medium tannins, and a long finish. Refosco is a red variety from Friuli in Northeast Italy.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $18; Winery, $18

NV Avanguardia Premiato Lot 56 (Sierra Foothills, California): Barbera, Dolcetto, Zinfandel. Ruby red with a beautiful bouquet of plums and spices. More plums and some black pepper come though on the palate. Medium-bodied and crisp with soft tannins and a long, but slightly off, finish. Barbera and Dolcetto are both varieties native to Piedmont in Northwest Italy.
Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $18; Winery, $18

Townshend Cellar, located north of Spokane in Colbert, Washington, was founded in 1998 by owner/winemaker Don Townshend. An engineer by background and trade, Don first got hooked on the wine business while doing an engineering job for Preston Premium Wines in Pasco in 1979. He moved to the Green Bluff area near Spokane where Townshend Cellars is now located in 1987 and began toying with the idea of making fruit wines. Ultimately, he decided that it made more sense to make traditional grape wines and made his first barrel in 1995. Excited by how his first batch turned out, Don finally made the decision to start his own winery. Now he makes over twenty different wines and produces about 16,000 cases per year.

We had the pleasure to meet Don Townshend at the Spokane wineries tasting hosted by Barrister Winery over Memorial Day weekend. While most wineries bring two or three wines to such a tasting, Don brought his entire twenty wine lineup. We discussed all of them and tasted nine. If you are looking for quality wines at great prices, you should seek out his wines. Townshend Cellar offers great value; all nine of their wines that we tasted had a QPR of 4 or 5 bangs for your buck. Our favorites were the T3 Red Wine, originally produced as a restaurant only wine but now available to the public, and the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon. The T3 Red Wine is actually a non-vintage wine made from three varietals (43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 17% Cabernet Franc) from three vineyards and from three different vintages.

Don has kept his day job selling commercial air conditioners. Having that extra income has allowed him to employ a director of sales and marketing, Jill Rider. Also involved in the business are Don’s two sons, Michael and Brendon, who Don hopes will someday take over for him and continue the Townshend Cellar legacy.

Over the past decade, Townshend Cellar has grown so much that now in addition to his Colbert location, Don also shares a large production facility with Preston Wines in Pasco. The Townshend Cellar tasting room is still located at their original location near Spokane, and Don has purchased additional land in the Green Bluff area with plans for a new tasting room and expanded production facilities.

If you are in Spokane, be sure to stop by Townshend Cellar to sample their wines. And regardless of whether you are able to visit or not, be sure to try some Townshend wines.

Question: What do Saviah Cellars and Watermill Winery have in common?
Answer: Winemaker Rich Funk.

Actually, they have a few more things in common as well. Both are located in the Walla Walla Valley, both are getting their grapes from some of the best vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley and elsewhere in Washington State, and both are producing excellent wines.

Saviah Cellars, founded in 2000 by owner/winemaker Rich Funk, is located in Walla Walla, Washington. Watermill Winery, located just across the state line in Milton-Freewater, Oregon, was founded in 2006 by the Brown family. The Browns are third-generation apple growers and also own Blue Mountain Cider. Since their expertise is in the fruit growing side of the business, they have enlisted the winemaking services of Rich Funk from the beginning. It seems to be a very positive relationship for both parties. Over the past year, we have had the pleasure of tasting a number of wines from both wineries and have gotten to know winemaker Rich Funk.

Rich is a very talented winemaker and an extremely nice guy. He is a native of Montana and moved to Walla Walla in 1991 to take a job as an Environmental Health Specialist for the Walla Walla County Health Department. While working on water quality and wastewater issues for the Health Department, he developed relationships with a number of area winemakers who ultimately helped him get his start in the industry.

Recently, we had the opportunity to taste five of Watermill’s current releases and one of Saviah’s. While all six wines are ones that we would recommend, we were especially impressed by the 2006 Watermill Estate Malbec and the 2006 Saviah Walla Walla Valley Syrah.

In my personal order of preference:

2006 Watermill Estate Malbec (Walla Walla Valley, WA): Brilliant, dark, dense purple. Mocha and vanilla come through on the nose; spices, black pepper, black fruits, plums, and black cherry on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with medium tannins. Extremely well-balanced and smooth with a long finish. This is an exceptional wine.
Quality: 4.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $28; Winery, $28

2006 Saviah Cellars Syrah (Walla Walla Valley, WA): Dark, dense blood red. Aromas of coffee, cream, burnt wood, and vanilla. Flavors of blackberry, black cherry, pepper, and coffee. Full-bodied and spicy with silky tannins. Well-balanced and smooth with a very long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $32; Winery, $32

2006 Watermill Estate Midnight Red Wine (Walla Walla Valley, WA): 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, and 5% Petit Verdot. Deep, dense purple. Nose is a bit tight at first. Gradually aromas of a forest floor come through. Red and black fruits, plums, and coffee come through on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with medium tannins. Well-balanced and smooth with a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $30; Winery, $30

2006 Watermill Syrah (Walla Walla Valley, WA): Dark red and dense with aromas of vanilla extract. Black fruits, tobacco, pepper, and spice come through on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with medium to high tannins. Really good with a very long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $24; Winery, $24

2006 Watermill Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla Valley, WA): Deep ruby red. Dusty road aromas and black fruit flavors. Medium-bodied and smooth with medium, dry tannins. Stops a bit short with a medium finish.
Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $24; Winery, $24

2006 Watermill Chances R Red Wine (Columbia Valley, WA): Deep purplish red. Creosote aromas and cherry flavors. Medium-bodied with medium tannins and a long finish.
Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Received as sample, suggested retail $15; Winery, $15

It has been quite a year for NYU Professor Tyler Colman. A Year of Wine: Perfect Pairings, Great Buys, and What to Sip for Each Season is his second book, he writes the popular Dr. Vino wine blog, and he is in demand as a speaker and interview subject. Kori reviewed his first book, Wine Politics, last fall.

While this book is geared more for the wine novice than the wine geek, it contains a wealth of information on a variety of wine topics that any wine enthusiast will find helpful. Colman starts out by giving some basics about wine and shares his approach to evaluating wines by style, or flavor profile, rather than by varietal.

The guts of the book, as the title suggests, is a year of wine organized one month at a time, with suggestions for wines to try in different seasons as well as offering food pairings. My favorite part of each chapter is his suggestion for a wine travel destination each month. Since I read this book on my recent trip to South Africa, I paid particular attention to his August travel section which featured South Africa.

While his first book, Wine Politics, contained some interesting information, it read like a PhD dissertation, which it was. This book is a much better read, provides a lot of great information, and flows like a good book should. I really liked it and encourage you to pick up a copy for yourself.

Have you already read A Year of Wine? If so, what did you think of it?

This week’s Wine Word of the Week is toast.

Official definition from Jancis Robinson’s The Oxford Companion to Wine:
Toast, given to a barrel when forming it over a heat source, is one of the processes in barrel making that most obviously affect eventual wine flavor. …. The toast provides a buffer between the alcohol in wine and the tannins in wood. In general, the less a barrel is toasted, the more tannins and other wood characteristics will be leached into the wine by the alcohol. Wine matured in lightly toasted barrels therefore tends to taste ‘oaky’, ‘woody’, or even ‘vegetal’, while wine matured in heavily toasted barrels is more likely to taste ‘toasty’ or ‘spicy’.

Layman’s terms from Kori:
Toast is imparted on a wine barrel during the barrel making process using fire to caramelize but not burn the inside of the barrel. The toast level directly affects the eventual flavor of the finished wine. The more the toast, the less the oaky, woody flavor.

Last weekend, we traveled to Walla Walla, Washington, to attend Vintage Walla Walla, an annual event considered to be one of the nation’s premier regional wine tasting events. It is a two-day event featuring seminars, tours, and winemaker dinners in addition to the two marquee tastings, the Vintage Pour and the Grand Pavilion Tasting.

On Friday evening, Dad (John) attended the Vintage Pour at The Marcus Whitman Hotel where 34 wineries dipped into their libraries to pour a total of 53 wines from the 2002 vintage and older. This tasting truly showcased the aging potential of Washington State wines. Dad was completely blown away by the oldest wine in the tasting, the 1994 L’Ecole Cabernet Sauvignon.

Colby and I attended the Grand Pavilion Tasting on the lawn at Whitman College on Saturday afternoon. We focused on wineries that were new to us. In all, we tasted 45 wines from 21 wineries. Our most exciting discoveries were Kontos Cellars, Couvillion Winery, and Walla Walla Vintners.

Interspersed throughout the Vintage Walla Walla festivities, we took the opportunity to visit some wineries that I had not previously visited: Bergevin Lane, Forgeron, Sleight of Hand, Tamarack, K Vintners, àMaurice, and Stephenson. Luckily, Forgeron winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla happened to be in when we stopped by so we were able to tour the winery with her. Visiting with Marie was a highlight of the weekend for me, and my daughter Sydney absolutely loved Marie’s dog, Salsa. We also had the pleasure to interview Dave Stephenson of Stephenson Cellars and will share that video in a future post. Stephenson makes stellar Syrah; his 2006 Syrah topped our list for the weekend in terms of Quality (4.5/5) and QPR (5/5).

We made a point to stop at a couple of our favorite wineries, Saviah and Watermill, as well. Saviah owner/winemaker Rich Funk took us through a vertical tasting of his Saviah Red Mountain Syrah from the 2003 through the 2007 vintage. Look for a future post on that tasting.

And on our way out of town, we stopped at the new Waterbrook tasting room whose Grand Opening coincided with Vintage Walla Walla weekend. Waterbrook is the flagship brand for the new Walla Walla Wine Works, owned by Precept Wine Brands, whose new facility is on the same property just across a little pond.

Here’s a breakdown of the wines that we tasted during the Vintage Walla Walla weekend. Under each Quality heading, the wine name and region will be listed along with price and QPR rating. Since the older wines tasted at the Vintage Pour are not available for purchase, their price and QPR is listed as NA. Wines in bold type received a QPR rating of 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5).

Quality: 4.5 stars (out of 5)
2006 Stephenson Cellars Syrah, Washington State, $32, QPR: 5
2007 K Vintners Syrah Pheasant, Wahluke Slope, $35, QPR: 5
1994 L’Ecole Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA

Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
2008 Sleight of Hand “The Curtain Call” Late Harvest Riesling, Walla Walla Valley, $15 [375ml], QPR: 5
2008 Watermill Late Harvest Gewurztraminer, Walla Walla Valley, $18 [375ml], QPR: 5
2006 Forgeron Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $25, QPR: 5
2006 Bergevin Lane Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $26, QPR: 5
2006 Kontos Cellars Merlot, Columbia Valley, $28, QPR: 5
2007 Walla Walla Vintners Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $28, QPR: 5
2005 Stephenson Cellars Merlot, Washington State, $28, QPR: 5
2006 Stephenson Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington State, $32, QPR: 5
2003 Forgeron Cabernet Sauvignon Pepper Bridge Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, $46, QPR: 5
2008 K Vintners Syrah Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, $20, QPR: 4
2006 Couvillion ‘Equilibre’ Red Wine Bordeaux Blend, Columbia Valley, $25, QPR: 4
2006 Saviah Cellars Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley, $28, QPR: 4
2007 Saviah Cellars Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, $30, QPR: 4
2006 Forgeron Barbera, Columbia Valley, $30, QPR: 4
2007 Bergevin Lane Pinot Noir, Walla Walla Valley, $38, QPR: 4
2006 Feather [Long Shadows] Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $60, QPR: 4
2008 Bergevin Lane Viognier, Columbia Valley, $25, QPR: 3
2006 àMaurice Malbec, Columbia Valley, $35, QPR: 3
2006 Stephenson Cellars Patina Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $45, QPR: 3
2007 Tamarack Cellars DuBrul Vineyard Reserve, Yakima Valley, $50, QPR: 2
2006 Bergevin Lane Intuition Reserve Red Wine, Columbia Valley, $55, QPR: 2
2005 Pirouette [Long Shadows], Columbia Valley, $55, QPR: 2
2002 Beresan Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2000 Canoe Ridge Vineyard Merlot, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Cougar Crest Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2001 Dunham Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon VII, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Five Star Cellars Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2001 Forgeron Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2001 K Vintners “Morrison Lane” Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2000 K Vintners “End of the Road” Syrah, Red Mountain, $NA, QPR: NA
2000 L’Ecole Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2001 Leonetti Cellar Reserve, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Lowden Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Pepper Bridge Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Russell Creek Winemakers Select Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
1998 Seven Hills Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Spring Valley Vineyard Frederick, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 SYZYGY Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2001 Tamarack Cellars DuBrul Vineyard Reserve, Yakima Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Tamarack Cellars Syrah, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA

Quality: 3.5 stars (out of 5)
2007 Waterbrook Sangiovese Rosé, Columbia Valley, $12, QPR: 4
2007 Saviah Cellars “The Jack” Red Wine, Columbia Valley, $18, QPR: 4
NV Stephenson Cellars Red Wine, Washington State, $20, QPR: 4
2007 Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red, Columbia Valley, $20, QPR: 4
2007 K Vintners Syrah Milbrandt, Wahluke Slope, $25, QPR: 4
2003 Forgeron Merlot, Columbia Valley, $27, QPR: 4
2006 SYZYGY Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $36, QPR: 4
2006 Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $42, QPR: 4
2009 Watermill Rosé Wine, Walla Walla Valley, $14, QPR: 3
2008 Bergevin Lane Calico White, Columbia Valley, $16, QPR: 3
2006 Tertulia Cellars Sobra Red, Columbia Valley, $24, QPR: 3
2007 Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $28, QPR: 3
2006 Fort Walla Walla Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $28, QPR: 3
2007 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc, Wahluke Slope, $28, QPR: 3
2005 Forgeron Zinfandel, Columbia Valley, $30, QPR: 3
2005 Bergevin Lane Oui Deux Syrah, Wahluke Slope, $32, QPR: 3
2006 SYZYGY Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $34, QPR: 3
2008 Buty Rosé of the Stones (Malbec), Walla Walla Valley, $19, QPR: 2
2007 Stephenson Cellars Viognier, Washington State, $20, QPR: 2
2008 K Vintners Viognier, Columbia Valley, $20, QPR: 2
2008 Dowsett Family Winery Gewurztraminer, Columbia Gorge, $20, QPR: 2
2007 Kontos Cellars Gossamer White, Columbia Valley, $22, QPR: 2
2006 Kontos Cellars Alatus Red Blend, Columbia Valley, $32, QPR: 2
2006 àMaurice Red Blend “Tsutakawa”, Columbia Valley, $35, QPR: 2
2007 Abeja Chardonnay, Washington State, $36, QPR: 2
2007 Sleight of Hand “Levitation” Syrah, Columbia Valley, $40, QPR: 2
2006 Saggi [Long Shadows], Columbia Valley, $45, QPR: 2
2008 Forgeron Roussanne, Columbia Valley, $23, QPR: 1
2007 K Vintners “The Boy” Grenache, Walla Walla Valley, $45, QPR: 1
2006 Browne Family Vineyards Red Bordeaux-style Blend, Columbia Valley, $50, QPR: 1
2002 Amavi Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Beresan Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Buty Merlot & Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Cayuse En Chamberlin Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Five Star Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Five Star Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 James Leigh Cellars Syrah, Spofford Station, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Chester Kidder [Long Shadows], Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Morrison Lane Reserve Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
1999 Northstar Merlot, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
1999 Patrick M. Paul Vineyards Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2000 Reininger Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Russell Creek Winemakers Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 SYZYGY Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
1999 Walla Walla Vintners Cuvee, Washington State, $NA, QPR: NA
1996 Woodward Canyon “Artist Series” Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA

Quality: 3 stars (out of 5)
2006 Bergevin Lane Calico Red, Columbia Valley, $16, QPR: 4
NV Forgeron Walldeaux Smithie Red, Columbia Valley, $16, QPR: 4
2006 Sleight of Hand “The Spellbinder” Red, Columbia Valley, $19, QPR: 4
2006 Adamant Cellars Red Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot), Columbia Valley, $23, QPR: 4
2006 Couvillion Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $27, QPR: 4
2007 Waterbrook Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $12, QPR: 3
2007 Watermill Viognier, Columbia Valley, $14, QPR: 3
2007 Watermill Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $14, QPR: 3
2007 Tamarack Cellars Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $18, QPR: 3
2007 Waterbrook Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, $22, QPR: 3
2007 Tamarack Cellars Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $25, QPR: 3
2006 Couvillion Merlot, Columbia Valley, $25, QPR: 3
2005 Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $32, QPR: 3
2006 Tertulia Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $34, QPR: 3
2006 The Beast [Buty] Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills, $35, QPR: 3
2007 Waterbrook Melange Blanc, Columbia Valley, $15, QPR: 2
2008 Ardenvoir [Chateau Rollat] Rosé, Columbia Valley, $16, QPR: 2
2008 Sleight of Hand “The Magician’s Assistant” Cabernet Franc Rosé, Walla Walla Valley, $17, QPR: 2
2008 Couvillion Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $18, QPR: 2
2006 Tamarack Cellars Merlot, Columbia Valley, $28, QPR: 2
2005 428 Boulevard Red Wine, Columbia Valley, $28, QPR: 2
2007 Dowsett Family Winery Devotion (Syrah/Mourvedre/Grenache), Columbia Valley, $28, QPR: 2
2005 Tamarack Cellars Syrah, Columbia Valley, $28, QPR: 2
2003 Forgeron Syrah, Columbia Valley, $30, QPR: 2
2007 Abeja Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $32, QPR: 2
2006 Flying Trout Sangiovese, Columbia Valley, $33, QPR: 2
2007 Tertulia Cellars Viognier, Columbia Valley, $19, QPR: 1
2008 Flying Trout Torrontes, Argentina, $19, QPR: 1
2008 Adamant Cellars Bliss (Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon), Columbia Valley, $20, QPR: 1
2007 Buty Semillon, Sauvignon & Muscadelle, Columbia Valley, $25, QPR: 1
2006 àMaurice Syrah, Columbia Valley, $34, QPR: 1
2007 Adamant Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $35, QPR: 1
2001 Forgeron Merlot, Columbia Valley, $37, QPR: 1
2006 K Vintners “Guido” Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley, $40, QPR: 1
NV Ensemble Cellars Red, Washington State, $48, QPR: 1
2002 Basel Cellars Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Cayuse Bionic Frog Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2001 Forgeron Zinfandel, Alder Ridge Vineyard, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2001 James Leigh Cellars Syrah, Spofford Station, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Lowden Hills Merlot, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Morrison Lane Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Nicholas Cole Cellars “Camille”, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Patit Creek Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2000 Reininger Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2001 Seven Hills Winery Pentad, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2000 Waterbrook Syrah, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Zerba Cellars Merlot, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Zerba Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NA
2002 Zerba Cellars Syrah, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NA

Quality: 2.5 stars (out of 5)
2006 Renegade Wine Thieves [Sleight of Hand] Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $15, QPR: NR
2008 Gifford Hirlinger Pinot Gris, Walla Walla Valley, $16, QPR: NR
2007 Sleight of Hand “The Magician” Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley, $17, QPR: NR
2008 Couvillion Riesling, Columbia Valley, $18, QPR: NR
2006 Waterbrook Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $22, QPR: NR
2008 Cadaretta SBS White, Columbia Valley, $23, QPR: NR
2006 àMaurice Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $28, QPR: NR
2006 Fort Walla Walla Cellars Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $32, QPR: NR
2006 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $39, QPR: NR
2002 Russell Creek Winery Merlot, Columbia Valley, $50, QPR: NR
2002 Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Bottling One, Columbia Valley, $NA, QPR: NR
2002 Whitman Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, $NA, QPR: NR

Quality: 2 stars (out of 5)
2007 Gifford Hirlinger Malbec, Walla Walla Valley, $26, QPR: NR
2002 Russell Creek Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $50, QPR: NR

Barrister Winery, appropriately named for its two attorney/winemaker founders, is located in a 100 year-old brick building in the historic Davenport Arts District in downtown Spokane, Washington. Greg Lipsker and Michael White founded Barrister in 2001 after getting their feet wet as home winemakers under the name Greg Michael Cellars. Their first release was in 2003, and they moved into their current facility in 2004.

Currently, Barrister produces 3,200 cases per year and is on its way to 4,200 cases. It is almost exclusively a red wine producer, making only 200 cases of white wine, a Sauvignon Blanc. Barrister is known primarily for its excellent Cabernet Franc, although they produce other good reds as well.

Neither Greg nor Michael set out to become winemakers. They were both practicing attorneys. According to Greg, he took one wine class in 1972 when he was attending Gonzaga University. Other than enjoying wine as a consumer, he didn’t seriously consider getting into the wine business until 25 years later. Greg, Michael, and their families were on a trip in British Columbia, Canada, in 1997 when they stopped at a local wine shop to buy some wine and ended up purchasing a winemaking kit on a whim. They took the kit home, started making wine, and as Greg says, their hobby got out of control. They have both left their full-time law careers behind to focus on Barrister. Michael practices law on a part-time basis, and Greg is now full-time at the winery.

We first met Greg and Michael at this year’s Taste Washington. Then over Memorial Day weekend, we took a trip to Spokane and had the pleasure to visit Barrister Winery. Greg is a tireless advocate for the wineries of Spokane and hosted a tasting for us featuring eleven of Spokane’s 14 wineries. He and the other Spokane winemakers realize that it is in each of their best interests for all of them to do well.

Barrister’s facility is a large, three-story, multi-purpose space. The main level includes the tasting room and is a warm, inviting place, but it also has enough open space that tables can be cleared out and it can be used for various winemaking processes during certain times of the year as well as be rented for special events. Local artists’ work is featured on the walls and Barrister participates in the First Friday Art Walk. Barrister is open for tasting Friday 12-6pm and Saturday 12-5pm. Greg and Michael are also more than happy to give personal tours of the winery; you’ll just need to call in advance to set it up.

After our Spokane wineries tasting, we toured Barrister with Greg and tasted some barrel samples in their barrel room in the basement. Greg and Michael are always looking for ways to do things even better and are continually experimenting. It was very interesting to taste the same wine with just one factor being different: French vs. American oak, new vs. used barrels, different yeasts, and different ends of the same row in the vineyard. Based on these samples, look for good things to continue from Barrister Winery.

If you are in Spokane, be sure to stop by Barrister Winery to sample their wines and peruse the local artwork on display. And regardless of whether you are able to visit or not, be sure to try some Barrister wines.

Grand Rêve Vintners, whose first three wines were just released last month, produces vineyard-designed wines from Red Mountain grown fruit by an all-star cast of Washington winemakers. Theirs is truly a revolutionary and exciting concept in the same vein as Long Shadows Vintners. The difference is that Grand Rêve focuses on the fruit first and then selects Washington winemakers whom they feel can get the best expression of that fruit whereas Long Shadows selects the winemakers first and then lets them select the Washington fruit they want to use.

Grand Rêve (French for Great Dream) has planted their own estate vineyard on the upper slopes of Red Mountain above Col Solare. Their first harvest from the estate vineyard is planned for 2010. In the meantime, they are focusing on fruit from Ciel du Cheval Vineyard. Ryan Johnson, Grand Rêve partner and vineyard manager, just happens to be the vineyard manager for Ciel du Cheval and several other Red Mountain vineyards. Grand Rêve founder Paul McBride and Johnson currently have five Washington winemakers in the fold including Ben Smith of Cadence Winery, Mark McNeilly of Mark Ryan Winery, Ross Mickel of Ross Andrew Winery, Carolyn Lakewold of Donedei, and Chris Gorman of Gorman Winery.

Founded in 2004, Grand Rêve’s first three Collaboration Series wines were released in May. Collaboration Series I is a Bordeaux-style blend made by Ben Smith of Cadence Winery. Collaboration Series II is a Syrah co-fermented with Viognier made by Ross Mickel of Ross Andrew Winery. And Collaboration Series III is a 100% Syrah made by Mark McNeilly of Mark Ryan Winery.

Recently, Mom (LaGayle) and Dad (John) ventured over to Kirkland to the Grand Rêve tasting room which is only open Saturdays 1-5pm or by appointment. They were very impressed with the wines and had a great visit with founder Paul McBride. Dad called me on their way home to tell me that Grand Rêve is definitely a winery to watch. He bought a bottle each of their 2005 Collaboration Series I and 2006 Collaboration Series III, brought them home, and slipped them into our private tasting rotation against other top Washington wines. At a recent family dinner, we blind tasted the 2005 Collaboration Series I against the 2005 Quilceda Creek Red Wine. Both wines are excellent but the Grand Rêve Collaboration Series I blew us away. A few nights later we had what turned out to be the 2006 Collaboration Series III against the 2006 Sequel Syrah from Long Shadows. Again, both wines are excellent. The Sequel came out on top in this one but Grand Rêve certainly proved that it can go toe-to-toe with the heavyweights.

If these first releases are any indication, you might want to consider getting your name on their mailing list as I have a feeling that Grand Rêve wines are going to be hard to come by in the future.

Bordeaux-style blends

2005 Grand Rêve Collaboration Series I Red Wine (Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, Red Mountain, Washington): 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, 13% Petit Verdot, 12% Merlot. Winemaker Ben Smith of Cadence Winery. Very dark purple with dark black fruit aromas, especially black cherry, and hints of licorice and spice. More black fruits, pepper, and coffee come through on the palate. Full-bodied with high, drying tannins. Well-balanced and smooth with a long finish. This wine is so good.
Quality: 4.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $55; Compass Wines (Washington), $58.99

2005 Quilceda Creek Red Wine (Columbia Valley, Washington): 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot. Very dark purple. Black fruits, smoke, and chocolate come through on the nose; blackberry, coffee, toast, and chocolate on the palate. Full-bodied with medium to high tannins and a long finish. Well-balanced and smooth with a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 4 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $35; Available elsewhere, $55 to $75

Syrah

2006 Sequel [Long Shadows] Syrah (Columbia Valley, Washington): 96% Syrah, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. Winemaker John Duval from Australia. Dark purple with aromas of earth, kindling wood, smoke, and black fruits. More earth, black fruits, and hints of licorice come through on the palate. Medium to full-bodied with drying tannins. Opens up the longer the bottle is open. A complex, well-balanced wine with a long, lingering finish.
Quality: 4.5 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 5 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $50

2006 Grand Rêve Collaboration Series III Red Wine (Ciel du Cheval Vineyard, Red Mountain, Washington): 100% Syrah. Winemaker Mark McNeilly of Mark Ryan Winery. Dark purple, very aromatic and flavorful. Fruit-forward with aromas and flavors of blackberry, black cherry, cocoa powder, and pepper. Medium to full-bodied with medium to high tannins. Well-balanced and smooth with a long finish.
Quality: 4 stars (out of 5)
QPR: 3 bangs for your buck (out of 5)
Where to buy: Winery, $45; Compass Wines (Washington), $47.99